MEXICO
-- The glossy brochures don't exaggerate -- this is the land of
swim-up bars, satellite TV, goldfish-bowl-size margaritas and seaside
suites with more square feet than your average tract home. But that's
not half the story, for Baja California is also the land of dusty
roadside inns, weary small-town abodes and other digs that never
had the modern jet-setting traveler in mind.
When it's time to put up for the night, there are basically two
Baja Californias. One is the first world Baja, with thousands of
hotel rooms providing nearly all the comforts and services that
first world travelers expect. It's in the far north between the
border and Ensenada, the resort towns of Los Cabos of Baja's southern
tip, and to a lesser extent La Paz. And there's the 900-plus road
miles between Ensenada and Los Cabos, which seasoned Baja travelers
like to call "the real Baja." It's the land of stupendous vistas,
frontier spirit, vast empty spaces ... and a dearth of first world-style
lodging.
REAL BAJA
Exploring the real Baja may be one of the most rewarding journeys
you'll ever undertake, provided you bring a spirit of adventure
and leave your first-world sensibilities at home. You will not have
500 TV channels in your room -- provided you have a TV set at all.
The desk clerk may not speak a word of English, a rooster may serve
as your wakeup call, and the nearest swimming pool may be 100 miles
away. On the other hand, there'll be McDonalds to remind you of
home, no timeshare hustlers, no hammock salesman who'll chase you
for three blocks. And in most towns, you'll have a decent hotel
or two that will give you a good night's sleep and stretch your
travel dollar at the same time.
We can't name them all here, but we have provided a starting list
of good Baja lodging picks. All these offer affordable, no-nonsense
rooms, an exceptional setting, or in a few cases both. They're listed
north-to-south along Mexico Highway 1 (the Transpeninsular Highway),
plus a couple of other destinations elsewhere. Sorry, no border
towns, since most tourists there spend only a few hours.
ENSENADA
The first stop for most southbound travelers will likely be Ensenada,
an hour's drive from the border, with the most lodging anywhere
north of Los Cabos. It's hard to single out just a few spots, but
if you're trying to stretch your pesos, try Rudi's Hotel. Both are
only a few blocks from the waterfront, but far enough from the main
tourist zone to provide a huge savings and a peek at the "real Mexico."
If you'd prefer something near the bay, look for the tallest building
in town, the 10-story Villa Marina Hotel with stellar views of the
city and sea. Wherever you stay here, arrive early or book ahead
on summer weekends or U.S. holidays, when rooms are hard to find
at any price.
SAN QUINTIN
Another 120 miles south in San Quintin, the Hotel La Pinta faces
the crashing waves of Playa Santa Maria, one of the most magical
locations on Baja's Pacific coast. It's one of six La Pintas in
Baja, of which a couple of others have memorable settings. One is
110 miles farther south in the tiny hamlet of Cataviña, amid
the sprawling boulder field known as the "rock garden" in the heart
of the Central Desert. The rate is the same as San Quintin.
GUERRERO NEGRO
For basic, affordable lodging, few towns of any size are better
equipped than Guerrero Negro, 440 miles below the border, near the
huge salt works and whale-calving grounds of Scammon's Lagoon. A
personal favorite is Hotel El Morro. The rooms small and simple,
the plumbing occasionally creaks and groans, decor is minimal, and
the bath towels may remind you of a high school locker room. But
hey, it's clean and tidy and the price is hard to beat. We also
like the nearby Malarrimo Hotel, with a splendid restaurant attached.
And, they offer winter tours to see calving gray whales in nearby
Scammon's Lagoon.
SANTA ROSALIA
Continuing southeast, Highway 1 reaches the Gulf of California
at Santa Rosalia -- a striking foil to the rest of Baja California
with its wood and metal Gaelic architecture, reflecting its roots
as a French-owned copper-mining town. A good example is the 1886-vintage
Hotel Frances, with its spacious, wood-paneled lobby where dozens
of historic photos grace the walls. Located atop the so-called "French
Mesa" on the north side of town, it provides terrific views of the
gulf.
MULEGE
Forty miles down the coast, the Hotel Serenidad in the village
of Mulege is a Baja classic with its sublime, subtropical setting
alongside the sleepy Rio Mulege, just inland from the gulf. It's
also famous for its Fiesta Nights, held on Saturday evenings through
most of the year. Travelers converge from hundreds of miles around
for the huge buffet highlighted by a roast pig, while mariachis
and foot-stomping folkloric dancers provide hours of entertainment.
LORETO
Another 80 miles south is Loreto, a seaside town that's yet to
live up to its billing as Baja's next big thing but still has a
good assortment of accommodations. One notable place is Baja Outpost,
a hybrid of sorts between a B&B and eco-tourism outfitter. Its
palapa-style rooms include breakfast, but the real attraction is
the outstanding lineup of eco-tours. Kayaking, scuba diving and
snorkeling trips are programmed year-round, while winter tours seek
out colossal blue whales. Elsewhere, the Hotel El Junipero and Hotel
Plaza Loreto are good budget choices in downtown.
CIUDAD CONSTITUCION
Ninety more miles down Highway 1 is the farming center known as
Ciudad Constitución, in the heart of the Santo Domingo Valley
-- which some call "the Bakersfield of Baja." This may
be the least touristed city on the peninsula, but is still a good
stop for peso-pinching travelers seeking clean, no-frills digs,
ala Guerrero Negro. The Hotel Maribel and Hotel Conchita are both
good bets.
LA PAZ
Then there's La Paz, one of the most agreeable tourist cities in
all of Mexico and far less commercial than Los Cabos. The Hotel
Mediterrane is one spot that captures the international atmosphere,
with its Italian/Swiss restaurant and guests from around the world.
It is located half a block from the water's edge. A few blocks to
the north is Hotel Perla, which in 1940, the same year Steinbeck
called here. It feels historical but has held up well. Money-wise
travelers may want to try the Hotel Lorimar, one and one-half blocks
inland in the downtown area.
LOS CABOS
Los Cabos is really a tale of two towns -- the sleepy, boutique-laden
San Jose del Cabo, and its boisterous neighbor to the west, Cabo
San Lucas. In San Jose, the sweetest deals are found downtown, like
the Hotel Ceci, a certified bargain with basic, AC-cooled rooms.
Other downtown deals include the Hotel Colli, Hotel Diana and Posada
Terranova a bit pricier and nicer .
In Cabo San Lucas, The Bungalows Breakfast Inn provides a tranquil
refuge from the raucous club scene, though it's only a 10-minute
walk from downtown. Closer to town, the Olas Hotel has clean, simple
rooms while Cabo Inn Hotel has comfortable rooms. For many more
choices, pick up a copy of Los Cabos magazine or Los Cabos Visitor's
Guide, widely available in both towns.
SAN FELIPE
Elsewhere, there's San Felipe, alongside the shimmering waters
of the gulf, 120 miles south of Mexicali. It's just within weekend
range for Southern California road warriors and most visitors hail
from across the border, which means few lodging bargains. A good
no-frills choice is the Motel El Capitan, and just a block off the
waterfront. For something right on the beach, try the Motel El Cortez.
Be aware that despite its seemingly tranquil setting, San Felipe
can be noisy with dirt bikes, firecrackers and excitable college
students during U.S. holiday breaks.
BAHIA TORTUGAS
Finally, this overview would not be complete without mention of
Bahia Tortugas -- the most remote town with lodging in Baja California.
Near the western tip of the Vizcaino Peninsula along the central
Pacific coast and 100 miles from Highway 1, it offers a couple of
small, austere hotels. I've tried the Hotel Rendon, a tiny, austere
inn plunked along the dusty main drag.
Then again, 20-25 bucks buys you a night's stay in a town with
a truly remarkable setting, where barren brown hills meet a rocky,
wave-lashed shoreline to create a surreal, Death Valley-meets-New
England ambiance. Even most hardcore Baja rats never get here, but
few other towns capture the peninsula's untamed spirit like this.
YOUR TURN
Bear in mind, this is only a starting list and your own travels
will surely turn up many more good finds. Odds are you'll discover
a few duds too, but is that such a bad risk as you explore one of
the greatest unspoiled regions left in North America? |
