WHERE TO EAT
LOS GIRASOLES, Tacuba #8A. Across from the National Art
Museum and the Carlos IVth statue, this restaurant offers a new
take on traditional cuisine. Valet parking is available. Website
LA CASA DE LAS SIRENAS, Republica de Guatemala #32. Restaurant
and tequila bar behind the cathedral. Choice spot on the roof for
people-watching and observing Aztec
dances that take place outside of the Templo
SANBORN'S CASA DE LOS AZULEJOS, Avenida Madero #4. A national
landmark. The patio of this 16th-century manor has been converted
into one of Mexico City's most famous restaurants. This is the flagship
of the Sanborn's restaurant chain. Less known is that the business
was started by a pair of Gringo brothers just before the Mexican
CAFE LA BLANCA, 5 de Mayo #40. Just a few blocks west from the
this is an airy cafe with good coffee and gigantic windows that
showcase life in the Centro.
CAFE TACUBA, Tacuba #28. It's not just a Mexican rock band.
This is one of the classier restaurants in the Centro with great
meals, often accompanied by live music, particularly in the late afternoon
and early evening. Try their excellent tamales!
RESTAURANTE VEGETARIANO, Mata #13. Located on
a pedestrian walkway between Avenida 5 de Mayo and Avenida Madero,
this popular restaurant features generous portions of vegetarian
fare. Open daily 8am-10pm.
WHERE TO DRINK
SALON CORNA, Bolívar #24. Founded in 1928.
DOS NACIONES, Bolívar #58A - Con tres bebidas
coma todo lo que quiera por persona
DE LA INDIA, El Salvador #42 (corner of Bolívar)
LA FAENA Venustiano Carranza #49. The incongruous mix of
plastic chairs, high ceilings and mannequins sporting bull fighter
attire lends the appearance of a once elegant cantina overtaken
by squatters. The signature painting of a man picking a nocturnal
fight with a bull is a frequent backdrop to electronic music shows.
Fluorescent lights illuminate what the broken chandeliers cannot.
COFFEE AND DESERT
CHURRERIA EL MORO, Lazaro Cardenas (Eje Central) #42. Churros,
the cinnamon-sugar-coated pastries that taste like funnel cake are
served with steaming hot cups of hot chocolate -- Mexican and French
styles are highly-recommended. This famous establishment is more
than sixty years old and open 24/7.
PANADERIA IDEAL, Avenida 16 de Septiembre #18. Not a restaurant
but a bakery with a cavernous interior. If you see people walking
around town with boxes wrapped in light blue paper, you'll know
they bought confections from this place. Ideal for early-risers,
the bakery opens at 6:30am. and does not close until 9pm.
CAFE LA HABANA, Morelos #62 and Bucareli.
Actually, a few blocks west of the historic center of town, this
cavernous spot is frequented by reporters who work in the nearby
newspaper district. This cafe opened in 1954. Hot milk never tasted
as good as when served with expresso coffee in steaming hot lecheros.
Don't burn your fingers!
MERCADO SAN CAMILITO, Plaza Garibaldi. The market
has a row of good restaurants serving pozole and other Mexican specialties.
Highly recommended is the combo stand (#15 and #16 -- Los Güeros).
Afterwards, visit Tenampa, Mariachi Headquarters and sample some
pulque on the plaza square.