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EXPLORING MEXICO CITY

Centro Historico Tips: Where to Stay and Eat!
by Ron Mader

DF WIKI

Thank God they're only after the gold and silver. They don't know about the jade.
- Mexico Notebook

 

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WHERE TO EAT

LOS GIRASOLES, Tacuba #8A. Across from the National Art Museum and the Carlos IVth statue, this restaurant offers a new take on traditional cuisine. Valet parking is available. Website

LA CASA DE LAS SIRENAS, Republica de Guatemala #32. Restaurant and tequila bar behind the cathedral. Choice spot on the roof for people-watching and observing Aztec dances that take place outside of the Templo Mayor.

SANBORN'S CASA DE LOS AZULEJOS, Avenida Madero #4. A national landmark. The patio of this 16th-century manor has been converted into one of Mexico City's most famous restaurants. This is the flagship of the Sanborn's restaurant chain. Less known is that the business was started by a pair of Gringo brothers just before the Mexican Revolution.

CAFE LA BLANCA, 5 de Mayo #40. Just a few blocks west from the Zócalo, this is an airy cafe with good coffee and gigantic windows that showcase life in the Centro.

CAFE TACUBA, Tacuba #28. It's not just a Mexican rock band. This is one of the classier restaurants in the Centro with great meals, often accompanied by live music, particularly in the late afternoon and early evening. Try their excellent tamales!

RESTAURANTE VEGETARIANO, Mata #13. Located on a pedestrian walkway between Avenida 5 de Mayo and Avenida Madero, this popular restaurant features generous portions of vegetarian fare. Open daily 8am-10pm.

WHERE TO DRINK

SALON CORNA, Bolívar #24. Founded in 1928. (Photo)

DOS NACIONES, Bolívar #58A - Con tres bebidas coma todo lo que quiera por persona

DE LA INDIA, El Salvador #42 (corner of Bolívar)

LA FAENA Venustiano Carranza #49. The incongruous mix of plastic chairs, high ceilings and mannequins sporting bull fighter attire lends the appearance of a once elegant cantina overtaken by squatters. The signature painting of a man picking a nocturnal fight with a bull is a frequent backdrop to electronic music shows. Fluorescent lights illuminate what the broken chandeliers cannot.

COFFEE AND DESERT

CHURRERIA EL MORO, Lazaro Cardenas (Eje Central) #42. Churros, the cinnamon-sugar-coated pastries that taste like funnel cake are served with steaming hot cups of hot chocolate -- Mexican and French styles are highly-recommended. This famous establishment is more than sixty years old and open 24/7.

PANADERIA IDEAL, Avenida 16 de Septiembre #18. Not a restaurant but a bakery with a cavernous interior. If you see people walking around town with boxes wrapped in light blue paper, you'll know they bought confections from this place. Ideal for early-risers, the bakery opens at 6:30am. and does not close until 9pm.

CAFE LA HABANA, Morelos #62 and Bucareli. Actually, a few blocks west of the historic center of town, this cavernous spot is frequented by reporters who work in the nearby newspaper district. This cafe opened in 1954. Hot milk never tasted as good as when served with expresso coffee in steaming hot lecheros. Don't burn your fingers!

MARKETS

MERCADO SAN CAMILITO, Plaza Garibaldi. The market has a row of good restaurants serving pozole and other Mexican specialties. Highly recommended is the combo stand (#15 and #16 -- Los Güeros). Afterwards, visit Tenampa, Mariachi Headquarters and sample some pulque on the plaza square.

 

WHERE TO STAY

HOTEL CORTES, Avenida Hidalgo #85, 5518-2181. Located across from Alameda, this is one the Centro's most elegant and accessible hotels. Website

HOTEL CATEDRAL, Donceles #95; 5518-5232. Just a few blocks from the Zócalo and the Templo Mayor, this hotel offers clean rooms and a sparkling lobby. The roof-top veranda has one of the best views of the historic downtown.

HOTEL DILIGENCIAS, Belisario Dominguez #6, 5526-5840. Two blocks from Garibaldi Plaza, the hotel maintains a quiet, family-friendly ambiance. Parking is next door. Website

HOTEL EL SALVADOR, República del Salvador #16, 5521-1008. Website

HOTEL MONTE CARLO, República de Argentina #69

HOSTAL MONEDA, Moneda #8, 5522-5803. Located one block east of the Templo Mayor and the Zócalo, this hostal has private and dormitory rooms (six beds). Website

HOTEL VIRREYES, José Maria Izazaga #8; 5255-21-4180. Six floors of ample, well-illuminated rooms. Website


AUTHOR

Ron Mader is the responsible travel correspondent for Transitions Abroad and host of the award-winning Planeta.com website.


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