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Clear days in Mexico City are
measured by one's ability to see the surrounding snowcapped mountains
and peaks.
RUMBLINGS OUTSIDE THE CAPITAL
The most impressive of mountains seen from Mexico City are the
twin volcanoes, Popocatépetl and Ixtaccíhuatl, also
known as 'Smoking Mountain' (5,452 meters) and 'The Sleeping Woman'
(5,286 meters), respectively.
The last eruption of Popocatépetl (commonly known as Popo)
occurred in 1802, with additional rumblings throughout the 1920s;
but the volcano was awakened from its slumber in December 1994 and
has been off-limits to climbers. The danger level could go from
yellow to red alert at any time. The volcano is monitored by the
National Autonomous University of Mexico (UNAM) and a webcam provides
24-hour coverage.
HISTORY AND LEGENDS
Historically, the volcanoes have been used for a variety of natural
resources. Historians recount that the Aztecs made trips to the
volcano to fetch ice for Moctezuma's drinks. The ingenious Spanish
conquistadors used the sulfur found in Popo's crater as a source
for their gunpowder.
And according to legend, a princess was waiting for the return
of her warrior lover when she heard an erroneous report of his death.
Grief-stricken, she poisoned herself and died. The warrior, still
alive, returned from battle and carried her body to the top of Ixtaccíhuatl.
Holding his dead lover, he jumped into the crater to his death.
TRAVELER'S TIPS
Mexican volcanoes are higher than most mountains in the United
States, but smaller than their South American cousins. Consequently,
mountain climbers bound for South American volcanoes use this area
as a training ground. Popo is the easier hike of the two (but probably
off-limits for the next few years).
It's best to climb either volcano between late November and early
March during the dry season (which is also when Mexico City suffers
thermal inversions, all the more reason to head for the hills).
It's possible to climb during the rest of the year. Climb early
before the clouds roll in during the afternoon, sometimes as early
as noon.
The town of Amecameca
lies at the foot of the volcanoes. Further uphill is Tlamacas (3,950
meters), the staging ground for your ascent. You can stay at the
Vicente Guerrero Tourist Hostel which is a good place to acclimatize.
The hostel also serves as a meeting point for climbers.
A word about safety: You should not try to climb a volcano without
climbing experience. If you're a novice, find a guide. Be sure to
have crampons, rope, and an ice ax -- and know how to use these
tools. Be alert to the danger of snow blindness, and be sure to
wear UV-protecting sunglasses while you're on the ice.
Altitude sickness is potentially life-threatening; know the symptoms
(severe headache, accelerated respiration). Allow a few days to
acclimatize in Mexico City or Amecameca before climbing to an even
higher elevation.
PARK STATUS
The park is 25,679 hectares (63,427 acres) in size.
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