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MEXICO GUIDE

Exploring the Pyramids of Teotihuacán
by Ron Mader

MEXICO WIKI
MEXICO FORUM

Para mí sólo recorrer los caminos que tienen corazón, cualquier camino que tenga corazón. (I only trek the paths that have heart, whatever path that has heart.)
- Mexico Notebook

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PHOTO GALLERY: Teotihuacán Group


Teotihuacán (elevation: 2,300 meters) boasts the third-largest pyramid in the world, and the remains of an ancient city. Its original name is not known. The archaeological site covers a total surface area of 83 square kilometers and was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987.

The former grand city is located 50 kilometers (31 miles) northeast of Mexico City on a plateau more than 2,000 meters (6,560 feet) high with a temperate, semi-arid climate.

In this region, the rivers and springs could adequately support the irrigation of more than one harvest a year. Water from the San Juan, San Lorenzo and Huixulco Rivers, along with underground springs, allowed the city to flourish for more than 1,000 years.


BRIEF HISTORY

Occupation of the area began around 500 B.C. and lasted a millennium until it was abandoned in the sixth century. At its zenith, Teotihuacán was home to more than 200,000 people, arguably the world's most populated city at the time.

The founders of the city did not leave a writing system. By the time the Aztecs discovered the site, more than six centuries had passed. When the Aztecs founded Tenochtitlán, they adopted the ruins as a ceremonial ground and gave the city the grand name Teotihuacán (meaning 'Place of the Gods').

The Aztecs named the tallest structure the Pyramid of the Sun because the front wall faces the exact point on the horizon, where the sun sets at spring and autumn equinoxes. This pyramid is 70 meters (230 feet) high with a 220-meter (720-foot) base. It was built around A.D. 150. The neutral stone facade belies its former spectacle: originally it was painted bright red. The smaller Pyramid of the Moon was built between A.D. 250 and 600.

Another point of interest is the Temple of Quetzalcoatl. The facade features representations of Quetzalcoatl the serpent, a symbol of fertility and renewal, and heads of Cipactli, the mythical crocodile who symbolizes time and creation.

The city's foundation are still intact. It was originally divided into four quarters by two corridors. The north-south avenue is called Avenida de los Muertos (Avenue of the Dead), again named by the Aztecs who believed (incorrectly) that the buildings were tombs.

Most sacrifices in Teotihuacán were made to Tláloc, the god of rain, fertility and water.

NEIGHBORS

During the early half of the first millennium, Teotihuacán was the largest city in Mesoamerica, with more than 100,000 inhabitants. Teotihuacán traded with other Mesoamerican empires, including the Maya.

Teotihuacán's ceramics, obsidian crafts, and architecture are found in distant cities such as Monte Albán (Oaxaca), Tikal (Guatemala), and Copán (Honduras), while other cultures' goods and crafts have been uncovered in Teotihuacán graves and caches. This represents a cross-cultural exchange much like finding McDonald's Happy Meal toys in a rural village, or Mayan crafts in a New York boutique.

The city e functioned for centuries until its collapse in the seventh century. What happened? There is evidence of malnutrition and environmental neglect in the region, especially the deforestation of nearby hills which were and still are rich in obsidian (used for ceremonial knives and figures) and clay deposits, used for ceramics.

CURRENT STATUS

Today the park offers more than a glimmer of its former greatness. To gain perspective, visit the museum and botanical garden.

The garden is well signed and the museum showcases the ceramics and sculptures that have been excavated. This is one of the best museums in the country and admission is included in the entrance fee. One room contains a miniature representation of the metropolis, covered by a plexiglas floor. Just walking across this room gives the visitor an eagle-eye view. Scale models also show how the city might have looked around 500 A.D.

TEMPLE OF QUETZALCOATL

Archaeologists are warning that the Temple of Quetzalcoatl has sustained structural damage. Deterioration has been caused by insufficient drainage to release water the building accumulates during the rainy season. One solution is to update the original drainage system.

VERNAL EQUINOX

Thousands of pilgrims dressed in white climb the towering Pyramid of the Sun to pay homage to the first day of spring. These visitors believe the pyramids hold a special energy on the vernal equinox that can be transmitted to people. Fashion tip: dress in white.

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VISITING?

LOCATION -- Teotihuacán is located 50 kilometers (31 miles) north of Mexico City in the State of Mexico

Travel!

TRANSPORTATION -- Various tour companies in Mexico City offer day excursions that can be arranged from any mid-priced hotel but it's just as fun to take the regular Autobuses de Teotihuacán bus from the Terminal de Autobuses del Norte bus station in Mexico City. Take the bus to Los Piramides. The trip is less than an hour. Drivers, from Mexico City take Avenida Insurgentes north to the exit for Pachuca. After the toll booth, look for the sign for the exit to the Pirámides.

There is a ring road surrounding the complex and five separate parking complexes. Buses generally drop off travelers at at 'Puerta No. 1' at the southwest corner and pick up passengers from there as well as Puertas 2 and 3. The parking complex closest to the museum and nearby restaurants is found on the western side at Puerta #5.

ACCESS -- Teotihuacán is administered by the National Anthropology and History Institute (INAH) and is open daily from 8am to 6pm. The entrance fee is 37 pesos. There is an additional charge to use a video camera. No tripods are permitted.

DINING -- Food is available from reputable road-side cafes on the western side of the ring road as well as at the visitor's center at Puerta #1. One of the best choices is also one of Mexico's most unusual -- Restaurant La Gruta. Located 500 meters down the road across from the Puerta #5 entrance, this restaurant has been in business since 1906 and serving meals from the cool refuge of a subterranean cave. There are weekend shows.

TIP -- Bring a hat and sunscreen. There is little shade.


AUTHOR

Ron Mader is the Latin America correspondent for Transitions Abroad and host of the award-winning Planeta.com website.


REFERENCES

g Archaeology Guide
b Teotihuacán City of the Gods
b Centro de Tradición Antigüa Huehuetl Tlahtolli

FLICKR

b Teotihuacán Tagged
b Teotihuacán Group
b Teotihuacán - Ekzfotos
ONLINE FLICKR

WIKI

b Teotihuacán
ONLINE WIKI



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