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Celebrating Day of the Dead in Mexico
by Ron Mader

PLANETA FORUM

Here the eternity begins and the worldly grandeur is dust. (Aqui la eternidad empieza y es polvo aqui la mundanal grandeza.)
- Sign over the city cemetary entrance in Oaxaca City

Oaxaca, un lugar de devocion

PHOTO GALLERY: Day of the Dead


Day of the Dead is a holiday celebrated throughout the Americas and combines ancient indigenous traditions and modern fanfare. It's a whimsical and yet serious holiday that takes place between October 31st and November 2nd.

Mexico may have the most spectacular festivals in the hemisphere. Well known are festivities in Oaxaca, Michoacán, and Mexico City.

UNDERSTANDING

Day of the Dead is literally a world away from Halloween. Love rules the holiday as families believe that the souls of the departed return to visit living relatives. There is an abundance of food and drink.

Family altars are vibrant. The living shower the deceased with food and presents and decorate the graves and recount their stories of their loved ones. The bright gold marigold flowers (cempasúchil, see photo), food and drinks serve as beacons, if not runways, to guide spirits home back to their loved ones. The distinctive scent of marigolds are said to attract the dead.

HARVEST

Day of the Dead coincides with harvest time. The rainy season ends at the close of the hurricane season and farmers share their bounty with family, those alive and those who have passed away.

CRAFTS AND FOOD

Many foreigners are introduced to Day of the Dead via handicrafts, including paper mache skeletons (calacas) and candy skulls. Sweets and candy skulls are traditionally intended for the souls of departed children, who return to earth in the late afternoon of October 31.

Day of the Dead Bread (Pan de muertos) is decorated with strips of dough which appear like human bones. Bread is one of the centerpiece items on every altar. Extra loaves are needed to share with mortal guests.

Another traditional dish is the calabaza en tacha, cooked squash sweetened with cinnamon and brown sugar (see photo).

OAXACA

In Oaxaca, Day of the Dead is one of the biggest holidays of the year. Tours to nearby villages are conducted with respect.

Travel guides and hotels arrange guided trips for guests and friends to local cemeteries. For those seeking guided tours in English, we recommend Casa Arnel and MOC Adventures.

MICHOACÁN

One of the most famous celebrations takes place on the island of Janitzio in Lake Pátzcuaro.

At night, boats are decorated with candles and flowers, loaded with local villagers and visitors who are taken to the island's cemetery. There they spend the night, summoning back the dead in celebration. There are times when the number of travelers exceeds the comfort for all.

MEXICO CITY

Dead of the Dead altars are a focal point of many museums and public spaces. Among the most noted places to visit are the Diego Rivera Museum and the Popular Culture Museum in Coyoacan. In the southern part of the city, there is a famous celebration in the village of San Andrés Mixquic. Locals go to the graves early on September 16th to invite loved ones to the Muertos reunion.

MEXICO STATE

Toluca hosts the annual Feria del alfeñique which celebrates the art of making candy skulls.

GUANAJUATO

Day of the Dead is celebrated with a special touch at Guanajuato City's Mummy Museum.

www.flickr.com



A FEW WORDS ABOUT JOSE GUADALUPE POSADA

Mexican artist and printmaker José Guadalupe Posada (1852-1913) used the skeleton image to comment on social inequities of his time.

Posada produced more than 900 illustrations and the most famous invariably include costumed calaveras (skeletons). His most famous drawings is that of La Catrina, an elegant lady with a feathered hat. Politicians and other legendary figures were parodied in this satirical fashion.


AUTHOR

Ron Mader is the Latin America correspondent for Transitions Abroad and host of the award-winning Planeta.com website.


REFERENCES

g 2008 Day of the Dead
g 2007 Day of the Dead
g Death and Dying
g Death Notebook
g Day of the Dead: Spotlight on Boris Spider
b Day of the Dead Gallery - Mexicanwave
b Day of the Dead - Mexico Connect
b Day of the Dead - Arizona Central
b Dia de los Muertos - Oaxaca Alive
b Festivals and Traditions - University of Guadalajara
b México y Suiza organizarán festival sobre ritos funerarios
b When tourists attack - WorldHum
b Dia de los Muertos - Nicholas Beatty
b Dia de los Muertos Blog - Nicholas Beatty

NEWS

b Day of the Dead - Google
b Day of the Dead - Yahoo

FLICKR

g Grateful Dead
b Group: Day of the Dead 2007
ONLINE FLICKR

WIKI

b Day of the Dead
ONLINE WIKI

READER COMMENTS

One suggestion for those in Mexico City -- I would advise your readers to go to San Gregorio Atlapulco, which is right outside Xochimilco and far, far more authentic, prettier and more spiritual than Mixquic, which has turned into a terrible, tatty tianguis of drunks, fried snacks and massive traffic jams, along with the fact it has a tiny, midget-sized, trampled-over cemetary. San Greg is not only closer, it also has a good-sized panteon where locals gather on November 1. Bonus: they also still light bonfires in the street all night. Goes well with some ponche, atole, o lo que sea calientito.

VOX POPULAR

Que pasa bien los muertos.


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