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EXPLORING OAXACA

Santiago Apoala Guide
by Ron Mader

MEXICO FORUM

MEXICO --- The farming community Santiago Apoala (elevation: 1,970 meters) is nestled within the Mixteca's high sierra.

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The town boasts a spectacular landscape. What cannot be easily seen is the enormous underground lake, which emerge as the springs in Tamazulapan.

Visitors admire the beauty of the setting long before arriving in the village. The 'El Mirador' lookout is perched on a 400-meter high plateau that offers a great view of the entire town. As you arrive, look for ancient terraces on nearby hillsides.

MIXTEC WORLD

Apoala is a Mixtec word meaning 'where they share the water.' Most of the trails and sites of interest are reached by following the Apoala River. According to the Mixtec creation story, two giant trees growing along the banks of this river fell in love and linked their roots and branches. From this union emerged the first Mixtec man and woman.

A must-see is town is the city library which has a copy of the Nuttall Codex that depicts the origin and history of the Mixtecs and of their towns.

Besides portraying the region and its haracteristics, the document narrates the heroic feats of a great ruler named Eight Deer Claw of Jaguar.

NATURAL WORLD

Apoala has numerous trails to explore. A local guide is necessary to make any trek.

The Picturas Respuestas (Discovered Pictures) are glyphs that are at least 5,000 years old and the oldest Mixtec drawings in existence.

Near the campsite area is Cueva de la Culebra (Rattlesnake Cave) which has two chambers filled with stalactites and stalagmites. The first chamber has an underground lagoon. The second chamber has a stalagmite shaped like a tiara or miter, which the villagers call the Stone of the Archbishop.

Returning to the plain called Arriba del Agua, hike about two kilometers until reaching Morelos Canyon. Two enormous peaks approximately 400 meters high and 200 meters long are divided by a narrow passage of from ten to fifteen meters in width. This passage is called peña que se junta (the peak that joins), because when looking up you get the impression that the peaks come together.

A highlight of any visit is the hike to the waterfall Cola de Serpiente (Serpent's Tail). The hike follows the Apoala River two kilometers downhill at which point the river becomes a 60-meter high waterfall.

CULTURAL WORLD

The Santiago Apóstol Chuch was constructed in the sixteenth century.



VISITING?

LOCATION -- Santiago Apoala is 107 kilometers northwest of Oaxaca City and 40 kilometers (25 miles) north of Nochixtlán.

Travel!

TRANSPORTATION -- Transportation can be complex. There is a community microbus that runs between Apoala and Nochixtlán on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays. It departs Apoala at 8am on Wednesdays and Saturdays and 5am on Sundays. From Nochixtlán, it leaves near the market at 1pm on Wednesdays and Saturdays and noon on Sundays. To get to Nochixtlán, there are departures from Oaxaca City's second class bus station via Transportes Turísticos de Nochixtlán every 30 minutes from 9am to midnight. There is also the SUR bus line with several departures each day.

If you are driving from Oaxaca City, head 70 kilometers (43.5 miles) west from via the Cuacnopalan - Oaxaca Highway, or take Highway 190 for 100 kilometers (62 miles) until reaching the town of Nochixtlán. From there, continue for 40 kilometers (25 miles) along a dirt road, taking the appropriate turns to Santa Catarina Ocotlán and then to San Antonio Nduayuco. After passing through the town of San Miguel Chicagua you will reach Apoala.

ACCESS -- The community charges visitors a 50 peso access fee.

LODGING -- A community lodge is located in town.


TIP -- Prepare for the cold! As the elevation climbs, the temperatures plunge.


AUTHOR

Ron Mader is the Latin America correspondent for Transitions Abroad and host of the award-winning Planeta.com website.


REFERENCES

g Apoala, Un Rincon en la Mixteca Oaxaqueña
g Santiago Apoala Photo Album - Diana Ricci/RealOaxaca.com


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Nochixtlán - Santiago Apoala - Tamazulapan
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