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Last Updated
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Oaxaca Folk Art: Buying
Crafts in Oaxaca City
by Ron Mader
Never underestimate the entertainment value of shopping.
- Shopping
Notebook |
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| Oaxaca is synonymous with Mexican folk art. Arte
popular has no finer home than Oaxaca
City.
Whether you are seeking jewelry, woven rugs, shawls, ceramics
or elaborate wooden figures, the famous alebrijes,
you could be overwhelmed by the variety and quality of local
crafts. Our suggestion - take your time, scan
the photos, read a bit before you arrive and visit a few
of the stores and artesanos.
YOUR TURN
If you'd like to take our Market Challenge: Print
a photo you've seen on Flickr
and seek out the vendor or artisan. Give them the print-out.
Learn how to say 'thank you' in an indigenous language.
Ask permission and take photo of signage, preferably eco signs!
Add these photos with the name of the market to World
Signs
Ask permission to take photos of animals depicted in folk art.
Add these photos with the name of the artisan to World
Crafts
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NEW IN 2009
Tun muj ken, Garcia Vigil #406. Arturo sells beautiful folk
art.
In the Mixe language the name means means 'apoyos mutuos'
or 'mutual help.' Flickr
FAVORITES
Jarcieria
El Arte Oaxaqueño, Mina #317 at the corner of J.P.
Garcia; 516-1581. Open 10am-8pm Monday to Saturday. In 1961
this store opened its doors and sells an eclectic mix of traditional
toys, woven baskets, lampshades, drums and tin frames. The
owner, Nicodemus Bartolo Vazquez, includes a small brochure
with information about Oaxacan history and customs with each
purchase. It's a small store filled with treasures and well
worth a visit en route to the Mercado
de Artesanias. FLICKR
Mujeres
Artesanas de las Regiones de Oaxaca (MARO), 5 de Mayo
#204, 516-0670. Open 9am to 8pm every day. MARO is run as
a cooperative whose crafts women and administrators are involved
in all stages of production - from the purchase of raw materials
to selling their own products. FLICKR
Mercado de Artesanias
is the largest market dedicated exclusively to crafts in the
city. Located five blocks southwest of the Zócalo,
the market has a wide selection and great prices. Products
range from jewelry to rugs and wooden figures. Thanks to the
quality of the crafts, this is one of the nicest craft markets
in the country. Details
...
Blackbox, 5 de Mayo #412 (between Abasolo
and Constitución). One of Oaxaca's newest craft stores
fuses art, crafts and creative design. It's one of our favorites.
Website Flickr
Plaza
Comercial de las Etnias, Garcia Vigil #304, photo.
This complex shows off regional crafts, clothes and chocolate.
Several of the venders who had previously sold their merchandise
at the Plazuela
de Carmen Alto now sell here.
Artesanias Teresita, Murguia #100-B. Victor Vazquez manages
a store that specializes in wooden figures.
La
Mano Magica, Alcalá #203, 516-4275, sells
rugs and weavings as well as paintings and stylish curios.
Located across the across street from the Museum
of Contemporary Art, this is an impressive gallery. Website
Casa
de Artesanias de Oaxaca, Matamoros #105 at the corner
of Garcia Vigil, 516-5062. Open Monday-Saturday. This cooperative
includes more than 80 organizations and family workshops.
Wheelchair-friendly. Website
Mercado Benito Juárez is the town's oldest
market (inaugurated in 1893). Located two blocks southwest
of the Zócalo,
the market is a great place to buy crafts and local food.
Details
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Instituto Oaxaqueño de las Artesanias, Garcia Vigil
#809, 514-0861. Open daily. This gallery (formerly called Aripo)
presents an exquisite collection of artesania.
Adolfina,
Xicotencatl #418 (corner of Rayón), 514-6618. Traditional
clothing, including dresses from the Istmo
and men's guayabera shirts. Beautiful quality.
Los Baules,
Alcala, photo.
Quality textiles and embroidered blouses and dresses.
Artesanias de buena
mano, Constitución #108. This store is across
from Santo
Domingo and just west of the Pañuelto
Garden specializes in replicas of exvotos, bottlecap earrings
and hand-made paper from the Taller Arte Papel Oaxaca in San
Agustín Etla.
Oro de Monte
Albán, Alcalá #403, #503, photo.
Jewelry is styled with Zapotec designs from Monte
Albán and other archaeological sites. In 1947 Rosa
Quevedo and her daughter Tere Calvo started a family business
opening the first jewelry shop in town. In 1985 they received
authorization of the National Institute of Anthropology and
History of Mexico to reproduce ancient works of indigenous art.
Website
La Forteleza, Constitución #200 and
Reforma. This store sells cold drinks and Fuego Interno matchboxes
made by La
Araña. |
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If you are seeking quality embroidered textiles, visit Mujeres
Artesanas de las Regiones de Oaxaca (MARO), Adolfina,
Plaza 8 Regiones, Ayuuk and Los Baules.
Want something light and inexpensive? Check out the clothes
made from muslin
or calico (manta) at the Mercado
de Artesanias. Among the advantages of clothes made from
manta -- it's an authentic display of embroidery, it's light
and it's beautiful (Fresca, linda, autentica!).
JEWELRY
Gift bags and wrapping paper are sold at Manzano, located
in the Abastos
Market, Local #273 and 20 de Noviembre #305. Over the
Christmas
holidays, look for bright-colored lanterns (farolas).
PLASTIC
Cristaleria Juquilita, at the corner of Independencia and
Reforma, sells housewares including an astonishing amount of
colorful plastic. This is not on the standard craft tour, but
it's worth a look.
Not standard crafts but the place to go if you want the local
pop cycle molds - El Cisne, Zaragoza #304
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WORKSHOPS
SPIDER ART - Local artist Boris
'Spider' shows kids of all ages how to make artistic creations
at Alcala #902-Bis. Summer workshops run during the school vacations,
particularly July-August. Slideshow |
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A FEW WORDS ABOUT BUYING CRAFTS
IN OAXACA
GO ON YOUR OWN OR WITH SOMEONE YOU TRUST
- If you go to craft villages on your own, 100% of your purchases
go the artisans. Many package tours insist on a commission (paid
from the artisan to the guide) and rates can go up to 40%. If
you go on your own, you'll see authentic production, not a show.
FOR THE LAZY - Vendors stroll the tables on
the Zócalo
in the afternoons and evenings. They sell toys and trinkets
and all sorts of crafts. It's an easy way to make purchases,
particularly if you want a wooden comb or a rebozo.
PRICING - Prices vary depending on the quality
of the product and where you make your purchase. That said,
prices in the Mercado
de Artesanias are generally no higher than what you find
in artesan homes.
MEASURING - If you are purchasing a rug, you
might want to take a measuring tape, particularly if you are
looking for a particular size.
SHIPPING - Most craft shops can pack your
purchases for shipment. So if you see something fragile you'd
like, ask if they can pack the materials securely.
AIRLINE PASSENGERS - Metal and tin crafts,
mirrors and any sharp object (including knives) must be packed
in checked luggage.
FOR MORE INFO - Shoppers interested in learning
how traditional craft production fits in to conscientious travel
and ecotourism should review our guide to Tourism
and Crafts.
IN TRANSITION
Corazon
del Pueblo, Alcalá #307. Run by Rosa Blum Perez,
one the nicest craft stores in the country closed its doors
in 2007.
La
Plazuela closed its doors on Alcalá in December. |
| PUBLISHERS
- This article is available for paid syndication. Those interested
in publishing this article should request
permission. |
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