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EXPLORING OAXACA

Guelaguetza: A Mexican Festival
by Ron Mader

MEXICO FORUM

One of the most colorful celebrations in the Americas takes place in the southern corner of Mexico.


PHOTO GALLERY: Guelaguetza
SLIDESHOW


The Guelaguetza is one of Mexico's premiere celebrations of dance and music dates to pre-Colombian times. Also known as Lunes del Cerro ('Mondays of the Hill'), this is the largest folklore festival in the Americas.

2008 celebrations are scheduled for July 21 and 28. There is a state-sponsored Guelaguetza at the auditorium on Fortin Hill. Smaller Guelaguetzas are held in towns in the Central Valleys, including Zaachila, Cuilapan de Guerrero (near Zaachila), San Antonin Castillo (near Ocotlán de Morelos), Tlacochuahuaya, Reyes and Villa de Etla.

2007 HEADLINES

Protesters demanding the resignation of Oaxaca's governor vowed to block the festival for a second year in a row and to stage their own 'popular' event. The official Guelaguetza did take place in 2007, though attendance was low and many seats were filled with state employees.


INDIGENOUS ROOTS

The festival connects indigenous traditions with the Catholic faith and occurs on the following two Mondays after July 16th, the Day of Saint Carmen.

The roots of this festival is dedicated to indigenous gods, particularly Centeotl, the Zapotec and Miztec goddess of corn.

The Sunday before the event a young woman is chosen to represent Centeotl. She is chosen on the basis of how well she represents her community.

The word 'Guelaguetza' corresponds to paying off social debts. The word Guelaguetza comes from the Zapotec language and means 'reciprocal exchanges of gifts and services.' At its base is an exchange of products and services, an age-old tradition of 'paying it forward.'

Gifts are catalogued and repaid at other guelaguetzas. This tradition is voluntary, contrasting with the tequio, obligatory communal work which also plays an important role in social relations.

FLYING PINEAPPLES

Dances range from solemn to raucus expressions of local culture. At the end of each dance, each delegation presents their own 'guelaguetza' to the audience by throwing small fruit, hats, and even coconuts and pineapples.

The audience stays alert to catch the gifts and to avoid getting hit by projectiles. Pineapples sting the most.

RELATED EVENTS

While the formal dances occur only two days each year, the last two weeks of July are filled with folk art and gastronomic exhibitions.

Related events in Oaxaca City include Donají, La Leyenda and Bani Stui Gul.

Pedestrian-friendly Alcalá street becomes dancer-friendly on late Saturday afternoons (before the Monday Guelaguetza). The celebration begins with a colorful parade of participating delegations and led with Oaxaca's famous Calendas, giant paper mache figures.

HISTORY

In 1974 the state government rebuilt the amplitheater (auditorio) so that it could hold more spectators. Built on Fortin Hill, the stadium offers a superb view of the dancers and the city.

For the first the time in the history of the official state-sponsored Guelaguetza, the 2006 event was cancelled. Protesters blockaded the entrance and set fire to the interior of the auditorium. They also held their own Guelaguetza Popular at a local university.

Smaller Guelaguetzas were held in towns in the Central Valleys without incident.

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MINI GUELAGUETZAS

Travel tip. If you are not in town during July, you have plenty of options of seeing this remarkable dance. "Mini-Guelaguetzas" are conducted at several hotels throughout the year.

The oldest continuing program is held most evenings at Hotel Monte Albán, catycorner from the Zócalo.

Other options include the Camino Real and Casa de Cantera venues which offer more intimate shows and dinner buffets. Cameras are allowed and it's a good idea to make your reservation before noon.


Hotel Monte Albán Camino Real Casa de Cantera
Alameda de León #1 5 de Mayo #300 Murguia #102
516-2777 516-0611 514-7585
Show begins at 8:30pm Show begins at 8:30pm; Dinner begins at 7pm Show begins at 8:30pm
Cost: 70 pesos for the show; meals are available Cost: 315 pesos, includes dinner buffet Cost: 140 pesos for the show; a 3-course meal costs an additional 140 pesos.
   

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VISITING?

LOCATION -- The celebration takes place in Oaxaca City and towns in the Central Valley.

Travel!

PREPARATION -- Prepare to sit in strong sunlight for 4+ hours. There is no seat assignment, only designated sections A and B. If you want to get a good seat, arrive early (8-8:30am). Bring a hat and a bottle (or two!) of water. Taking sun block is a good idea, and you might want to wear a long-sleeve shirt.


AUTHOR

Ron Mader is the Latin America correspondent for Transitions Abroad and host of the award-winning Planeta.com website.


REFERENCES

b Guelaguetza - SECTUR Oaxaca
b Guelaguetza - Go Oaxaca Forum
b Donají.. La Leyenda
b Guelaguetza oficial, simulación que no refleja la tradición oaxaqueña - E-consulta


OAXACA


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CENTRAL VALLEYS

Index - Atzompa - Crafts - Guelaguetza - Market Days - Mitla - Monte Albán - San Bartolo - Arrazola - El Mogote - Etla - Santa Ana - Teotitlán - Tule Tree - Zaachila (CENTRAL VALLEYS)

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