OAXACA, MEXICO

Juárez and 20 de Noviembre Markets
by Ron Mader

MARKET WIKI

El que busca encuentra.
(One finds what one looks for.)
- Dichos

FLICKR ALBUM: Benito Juárez Market

Oaxaca City's Juárez and 20 de Noviembre Markets are located two blocks southwest of the Zócalo. Often these two traditional Oaxacan markets are considered a single entity by locals and visitors. 20 de Noviembre is also called 'Margarita Maza,' after the wife of Benito Juárez. Like the historic figures they symbolize, they are a united pair. As one friend told me, Nada mas una calle le dividen.

Most of the stands are open from 10am to 8pm, though many are open earlier and later, depending on their clientele.

BENITO JUÁREZ MARKET

The town's oldest market (inaugurated in 1893) takes up an entire block and was originally called the Porfirio Díaz Market. Later it was named after Benito Juárez. The brick structure is covered by a tin roof.

It's a good place to buy crafts as well as snacks and light meals. Among the highlights:

El Guajillo (#247-254), chiles

La Rosita (#7), traditional aprons

Centro Botanico Los Remedios (#249)

La Confianza (#311) which sells coffee from the town of Pluma Hidalgo.

Looking for market bags? Visit Panchita (#176-178) and El Paraiso (#207-208).

Cheese? Chapulines? Toñita (#80) Faby (#54) and Confianza (#55)

Hot chocolate? Comedor María Cristina (#19-20)

Textiles? Manos de Luz (#170-171)

Fruit drinks? Casilda's (#30 and 31) is famous for its chilacoyota.

Tortas Ali (#153) sells tortas and great piedrazos.

Ice cream and sherbet? Neveria El Niagra (#28)

Faroles? El Paraiso (#191 and 208)

Rodetes? Jarcieria Yazmin, Caseta #296 on the west exterior

La Flor de Huayapam (#223-224) sells excellent tejate and tejate ice cream.

The aisles on the south side are packed with ladies selling baskets of dried grasshoppers (chapulines).

Leather bags and sandals are sold in the corridor on the western side of the market. Puestos include Talabarteria La Conquistadora (#314)

Clothes and sporting kit are sold in the corridor on the eastern side of the market.

Meat is sold at the Carnicerias on 20 de Noviembre: Angelito (#31) (Video), Cerdito (#30) and Torito (#28-29)

20 DE NOVIEMBRE (MARGARITA MAZA)

South of the Juárez Market is 20 de Noviembre, also called Margarita Maza. It occupies a site previously held by the convent and hospital of the San Juan de Dios Church.

www.flickr.com

The market is well known for its colorful comedores (excellent tasajo and tlayudas!) and fresh breads, including Pan de Yema.

Two locals that always have a beautiful selection of bread are Doña Lidia (#159) and Rico Pan Paco (#137).

Comedores include María Teresa (#39).

Outside on the west side of the market, vendors sell the wooden molinillos for preparing hot chocolate and have baskets of green pottery from Atzompa. Artesanias Betin (#15) sells black pottery from San Bartolo Coyotepec.

On the east side of the market, the entrance on Migurel Cabrera leads into a smoke-filled aisle of carnes asadas. Carnivores, if you love the smell of meat, this is the entrance for you. Others, be forewarned.

OAXACA MARKET PROJECT

Oaxaca City's Juárez and 20 de Noviembre Markets are documented in the Oaxaca Market Project, an initiative of Planeta.com and friends in Oaxaca. We ask visitors to print photos (seen here archived on Flickr) and give them to the vendors. This puts a new spin on the traditional 'take only photographs' mantra by giving the photos back and raising awareness and increasing purchases of traditional crafts and local food.

What might be a rushed visit becomes a search for familiar faces and seasonal products. This guide encourages you to learn about the markets before a visit. Enjoy!