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EXPLORING OAXACA

Slow Travel in San José el Mogote
by Ron Mader

MEXICO FORUM

MEXICO -- It's hard to imagine that the peaceful town of San José El Mogote was once of the most important urban centers in the Americas.


HISTORY

Occupation of this town goes back 3,500 years when El Mogote was one of the first cities in the Central Valley. Zapotec culture blossomed here.

ARCHAEOLOGY

Definition -- Mogotes are small mounds. They can be an unexcavated archaeological site or municipal boundary markers. See photos.

This site was a predecesor of Monte Albán and peaked between 600 and 300 BC. Of the surviving structures you'll see several pyramids and a ball court. Most of the site is covered with vegetation and signage is almost non-existent. Dirt paths lead to the top of mounds with incredible panoramic views of the Valley. It's well worth the climb.

COMMUNITY

The site is located next to the town of San José el Mogote. The town's inhabitants are descendants of the workers of an old hacienda. These people arrived from different parts of the valley and conserve indigenous traditions without having a specific ethnicity.

COMMUNITY MUSEUM

Not to be missed is the modest community museum, housed in the former El Cacique Hacienda. The museum includes a collection of archaeological pieces. One bit of advice -- be patient. For security reasons, the museum is often locked and it may take longer to find the person in charge who can open the doors than you'll spend inside.

The most famous figure is a red-colored jade effigy. A second room focuses on the history of the hacienda and the local fight for land.


VISITING?

LOCATION -- San José el Mogote is located 12 kilometers (7.5 miles) northwest of Oaxaca City outside Guadalupe Etla.

Travel!

TRANSPORTATION -- From Oaxaca City, frequent bus service is available from the second class station via Choferes del Sur, or via collective taxi heading to Nazareno. Travel time is about 30 minutes. If you are driving, take Highway 190 going toward Villa de Etla, and turn left at the intersection leading to Nazareno. Go forward about two kilometers and then turn left and continue until arriving at El Mogote.

FESTIVALS - The town has an annual festival in March.


TIP -- The ancient sport of Pelota Mixteca is played on occasion.


AUTHOR

Ron Mader is the Latin America correspondent for Transitions Abroad and host of the award-winning Planeta.com website.


REFERENCES

g Archaeology Guide
b Archaeological Resources in Mexico: Oaxaca - Nelly Robles

FLICKR

b San Jose Mogote
ONLINE FLICKR

WIKI

b San Jose Mogote
ONLINE WIKI


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CENTRAL VALLEYS

Index - Atzompa - Crafts - Guelaguetza - Market Days - Mitla - Monte Albán - San Bartolo - Arrazola - El Mogote - Etla - Santa Ana - Teotitlán - Tule Tree - Zaachila (CENTRAL VALLEYS)

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