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EXPLORING OAXACA

Visiting San Bartolo Coyotepec
by Ron Mader

MEXICO FORUM

MEXICO -- The village of potters in San Bartolo Coyotepec potters is a popular place to visit.

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PHOTO GALLERY: San Bartolo


San Bartolo Coyotepec is a market town just south of Oaxaca City in the Central Valley. The town's artisans are world famous for their black pottery (barro negro).


LANGUAGE

'Coyotepec' is derived from the words coyotl (coyote) and tepetl (hill), and translates as 'on the hill of the coyote.'

CRAFTS

There are several dozen stores located on both sides of the highway and a market that features the work of 14 families.

Prices range from three to five pesos for whistles and key chains to several hundred pesos for the larger pots. Note that the pottery is not glazed and there is no danger of lead poisoning.

On the southern side of the highway a road leads to Alfareria Doña Rosa on Benito Juárez #24, the workshop of the late artist whose exceptional work won international acclaim.

CULTURE

The Museum of Popular Art of the State of Oaxaca (MAPO) opened in October 2004. The museum is located next to the city hall and within easy walking distance of the craft market. MAPO is open from 10am-6pm Tuesday-Sunday. Admission: 20 pesos. Wheel-chair friendly.

Just outside of town is the Cochineal Bug Educational Center. Learn how the tiny bug was so important to the local economy ... and how its use as a natural dye is being developed today.

The church is located on the east side of the highway.

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VOCABULARY -- A rodete is a reed ring that keeps rounded pots and jars from tipping.


VISITING?

LOCATION -- San Bartolo Coyotepec is ten kilometers (6 miles) south of Oaxaca City and 4 kilometers from Zaachila.

Travel!

TRANSPORTATION -- There is collective taxi service near the Abastos Market. Look for taxis on Diagonal Mercadores (at the corner of the Periferico Sur).

There is also bus service to Ocotlán from Armenta y Lopez #621 and ask to be dropped off in San Bartolo. The Halcon bus line has service from Bustamante.

Drivers, take Highway 175 toward Ocotlán de Morelos, Matatlán and Puerto Ángel.


TIPS -- Black pottery contains no lead. Buy a whistle! Also, you can ask the craft-maker to pack your purchase for shipment. There's less chance of breakage.


AUTHOR

Ron Mader is the Latin America correspondent for Transitions Abroad and host of the award-winning Planeta.com website.


REFERENCES

FLICKR

g San Bartolo
b Group: Arboles de Oaxaca/Oaxaca Trees
ONLINE FLICKR

WIKI

g Oaxaca Wikispace
ONLINE WIKI


OAXACA


Book Book Book Book

PLANETA


CENTRAL VALLEYS

Index - Atzompa - Crafts - Guelaguetza - Market Days - Mitla - Monte Albán - San Bartolo - Arrazola - El Mogote - Etla - Santa Ana - Teotitlán - Tule Tree - Zaachila (CENTRAL VALLEYS)

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