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EXPLORING OAXACA

Celebrating the Tule Tree
by Ron Mader

MEXICO FORUM

OAXACA - Mexico's most famous tree, the ginormous Tule Tree (Arbol del Tule) grows near Oaxaca City.


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PUBLISHERS -- This article is available for paid syndication. Those interested in publishing this article should request permission.


There is a family of ancient trees. Rooted in the town of Santa María del Tule, the Tule Tree and its environs comprise a unique natural monument.


TREES

The town proudly takes its name from the famous evergreen and boasts seven extremely large and ancient Montezuma Cypress trees.

The largest dwarfs the town's church and is more than 2,000 years old. This tree has a circumference of 54 meters (164 feet) -- the largest girth of any tree on the planet. Imagine ... this tree was a sapling at the time when the Zapotec civilization at Monte Albán was flourishing!

INTERPRETATION

Local children point out unusual figures one can see in the tree. With pocket mirrors reflecting the sun, the guides will point out figures such as the squirrel's tail and Carlos Salinas' ears.

A recent addition to the children's English-language lexicon is pointing out the 'butt' of Monica Lewinski, though if asked who she is, the typical response is 'an artist.' Other notable figures are used for tours given in German and Mexican Spanish.

NATURAL WORLD

The cypress (Taxodium mucronatum) known in Spanish as a sabino, in Nahuatl ahuehuete and in Zapotec Yagaguichiciña, is Mexico's national tree. According to legend, Hernan Cortes cried beneath the boughs of a cypress after the Aztecs defeated the Spanish on La Noche Triste (The Sad Night).

The area surrounding the mammoth trees was formerly a marsh filled with cattails or bulrushes, known in Spanish as tules. Environmental degradation as well as increased urbanization and irrigated farming have diverted water from the aquifers that nourish the trees. During the dry season, the water table decreases more than six meters (20 feet).

According to the local environmental group Mi Amigo el Arbol headed by environmentalist Jorge Velasco, if only two of the underground aquifers were restored, there would be sufficient recharge of groundwater supplies to ensure the survival of these trees.

"The most effective solution to ensure survival is to have enough water throughout the year as needed to replenish the aquifers and to be vigilant on water use so that it is appropriate for local needs and avoid wastefulness."

This initiative bears watching to see if development runs the course of Joni Mitchell's classic 'Big Yellow Taxi' or charts a new direction by making the tree the centerpiece for bioregional planning.

UPROOTED

In 2005 city authorities removed the youngest tree, one that had been planted by the King of Spain in the 1990s.

In Oaxaca's new-found 'tree consciousness' some environmentalists were angered that the tree was uprooted, though others were pleased that the oldest trees would not have to compete with a young upstart for limited water resources.

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QUIZ -- From the bandstand (kiosko) how many cypress trees can you spot?


CRAFTS

The plaza surrounding the tree boasts numerous stores. There is also a small craft market. Postcards are sold at several stores, including Flor de Tule. Mixe ceramics and textiles are sold at the Ayuuk store on the east side of the plaza.

NEARBY

Further east lie the towns of Teotitlán, Santa Ana de Valle, Tlacochuahuaya, Tlacolula and the Mitla archaeological site.


VISITING?

LOCATION - The town of Santa María del Tule is located in Oaxaca's eastern Central Valley, 10 kilometers (6 miles) west of Oaxaca City and east of Teotitlán del Valle on Highway 190.

Travel!

TRANSPORATION - From Oaxaca City, yellow and maroon-colored buses depart for El Tule every 10 minutes from the 2nd-class bus station. Taxis and buses can be hailed one block east of the baseball stadium on Niños Heroes. Tickets cost 3.5 pesos. The tree can also be reached via a short 30-minute bike ride.

ACCESS - There is a 3-peso fee to enter the church courtyard.

FOOD - Try the burnt milk and fish ice cream! Ok, it's not actually fish but that got your attention. La Guadalupana Market serves tasty traditional Oaxacan dishes, including barbacoa and empanadas de amarillo. Lighter options include sliced mango and cups of inviting pomegranate seeds. Ready for dessert? There's great ice cream (nieves), including tuna (the cactus fruit, not the fish) and burnt milk (leche quemada). Other traditional flavors include Beso de Angel and Beso Oaxaqueño. Venders are eager to offer samples.

Near the tree are plenty of restaurants and comedores. A clean and reliable choice is the spotless El Milenario, at Guerrero #4-A.

One kilometer west of town (on the north side of the highway to Oaxaca City) is a palapa-style restaurant serving Caldo de Piedra, literally 'stone soup' from the Chinanteco town of San Felipe Usila. (Photo) (Video)

BANKING -- There is an ATM machine near the children's playground on the main plaza. For travelers heading to Teotitlán del Valle and Santa Ana del Valle in need of cash, stop here first!

FESTIVITIES -- Residents celebrate the famous Tule Tree with a fiesta the second Monday of October. Look for garlands decorated with hanging bottles of refrescos, cervezas as well as grapefruit and empanadas. There is also a church festival on August 15th.


TIP - Take your time!


AUTHOR

Ron Mader is the Latin America correspondent for Transitions Abroad and host of the award-winning Planeta.com website.


REFERENCES

g Oaxaca Trees
b Yagul, Mitla y El Tule esperan título como Patrimonio de la Humanidad - Noticias
b Visite El Tule - Noticias
b Derriban árbol que sembró el Rey de España - Noticias
b The Ahuehuete Tree of Santa María del Tule - UNESCO


FLICKR

g Tule Tree
g Rompope
g Iglesia
g Bar Centenario
g Shiny Juárez
g Santa Maria del Tule
b Group: Arboles de Oaxaca/Oaxaca Trees
ONLINE FLICKR

VIDEOS

g Ahuehuetes
g Caldo de Piedra
VIDEO

WIKI

g Oaxaca Wikispace
b Arbol del Tule
b Taxodium mucronatum
ONLINE WIKI



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CENTRAL VALLEYS

Index - Atzompa - Crafts - Guelaguetza - Market Days - Mitla - Monte Albán - San Bartolo - Arrazola - El Mogote - Etla - Santa Ana - Teotitlán - Tule Tree - Zaachila (CENTRAL VALLEYS)

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