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MEXICO

Exploring Real de Catorce
by Ron Mader

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FLICKR ALBUM: Real de Catorce


Real de Catorce is one of the gems of Mexico.

Secluded in a valley, flanked by mountains and surrounded by the Chihuahuan Desert, Real de Catorce (elevation 2,756 meters, 9,040 feet) is undoubtedly Mexico's most famous ghost town -- actually a misnomer since it not only shows signs of life, but of renaissance.

Real de Catorce is one of Mexico's acclaimed Silver Cities and at the height of its fortune a century ago, it was the marvel of the whole of Mexico. But the fates were not kind. Silver prices crashed in 1905, and in turn, so did Real.

Fast forward one hundred years and the town is desperately trying to move beyond its celebrated ghost town image. Certainly, it maintains its grand visual appeal, not to mention magic, but residents would like to see some much-needed support for century-old buildings and even more ancient tradition.

TOURISM

A featured attraction in the state of San Luis Potosi, the city has received increased investment and attention in the past decade.

The altiplano environment offers great hiking, biking and horseback riding for visitors.

CRAFTS

The markets near the San Francisco church sell religious artifacts as well as jewelry.

HISTORY

Real takes its name from the 'Royal 14' a party of Spanish soldiers who died in a skirmish with Indians in the region in the early1700s. After the discovery of silver, Real was founded in 1773.

Real de Catorce was built during the colonial mining boom as a veritable outpost of progress. By the late 19th century, Real de Catorce was a thriving desert metropolis of 40,000 people, generating three million dollars a year in silver. The two kilometer Ogarrio Tunnel was carved in the mountain. The city's wealth can be seen in numerous residences, public buildings, churches and the stone bull ring.

But a slump in the price of silver in the 20th century took its toll on the town, as did the 1910 Mexican Revolution.


SPIRITUALITY

The Fransican parish in the center of town was built in the early 19th century. Thousands of pilgrims converge on it every the week of October 4, the feast day of San Francisco de Assisi. Travelers should take note that during these festivities, it becomes impossible to rent a room a town and it's difficult to walk around.

Another yearly pilgrimage takes place, by the Huichol Indians. Each June they travel by foot from their homes in Nayarit and trek to the Wirikuta Mountain to pay homage to their gods of hikuri (peyote) and maize.


VISITING?

LOCATION -- Real de Catorce is located 220 kilometers northwest of San Luis Potosi City

Travel!

TRANSPORATION -- There is regular bus service to Matehuala. If you are driving, take Highway 62 east from the turn-off on Highway 57. There's a turn-off to an unnumbered highway that leads to Real. This stretch of road is constructed with cobble-stone.


AUTHOR

Ron Mader is the ecotourism and responsible travel correspondent for Transitions Abroad and host of the award-winning Planeta.com website.


FEATURES

g Exploring Real de Catorce - Ron Mader
g Adventure in a Desert Ghost Town - Ron Mader
g Real de Catorce: An Outpost of Progress - Anthony Wright

ELSEWHERE ON THE WEB

g Exploring Real de Catorce - Ron Mader
g Adventure in a Desert Ghost Town - Ron Mader
g Real de Catorce: An Outpost of Progress - Anthony Wright
b Real de Catorce Net

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g Real de Catorce
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b San Luis Potosi
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