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MEXICO

Building a Men's Cooperative in El Cielo
by Scott Walker

MEXICO FORUM

MEXICO -- Several years of work by men of the "Cooperativo de los Hombres" in Alta Cima, Tamaulipas is evident today.

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PHOTO GALLERY: Mexico Markets


In 1995, when I began visiting El Cielo Biosphere Reserve, where the small community of Alta Cima is located, the men were just beginning to organize themselves into a cooperative ("Cooperativo de los Hombres") that would eventually build a rustic hotel and operate an ecotourism guide service.
The men were following the lead of La Fe, the Alta Cima Women's Co-op, which had successfully cornered the restaurant market in this once "restaurant-free" mountain community. The men's co-op, with fourteen active men today, began with building a spartan four-room hotel that had no electricity, only outdoor cold-water showers and pit latrines, yet a magnificent view of the Sierra Cucharas in Mexico's rugged Sierra Madre Oriental in the northeastern state of Tamaulipas.


SNAPSHOT

Today the men's co-op boasts an expanded three-building, eleven room hotel, each with indoor toilets, hot and cold water showers, lavatories, and photovoltaic-powered lighting. The office has a cell phone, as well as a gas stove where, if you ask, you might convince one of the rotating caretakers to heat some water for your morning tea or instant coffee.

Scott


The hotel is named after the lone pine tree that overlooks the grounds. Hotel El Pino is the result of a non-governmental community organization project—Progama ¡Organizate!—that began in 1994 to help the members of the Alta Cima community establish and realize goals for themselves.

Once a thriving logging community, Alta Cima fell into poverty after the area in which it is located was designated a biosphere reserve. In 1985, when the reserve was created, the residents of each of the communities within its boundaries no longer had viable occupations, because, with the stroke of the governor's pen, all large-scale commercial logging ceased.

Further strengthening the area's protection was its designation as a UNESCO "Man and the Biosphere Reserve" in 1986.

The creation of El Cielo Biosphere Reserve, a huge conservation step in Northeastern Mexico, was sorely needed. One of the Earth's northernmost tropical cloud forests, El Cielo serves as a water catchment for the agriculturally rich Huasteca region of northeast Mexico, not to mention the outstanding biodiversity that exists in the 144,530 hectare (356,442 acre) reserve.


BIRDING

In addition to the hotel, which is aimed at serving the general ecotourist, the men's group has been able to monopolize on the area's incredible avifauna diversity. It is estimated that within the reserve there are at least 255 resident bird species and 175 migratory species, easily making El Cielo the home, at some point in the year, to just fewer than 50% of Mexico's bird species.

The men's group has a team of eight guias de aves, or guides specializing in birding, who have taken courses in birding and courses in limited 'tourism' English.

One morning while I was giving Esteban, one of the hotel's caretakers and a guia de aves, some second-hand day packs and binoculars I had brought with me as a donation to the co-op, he demonstrated his birding knowledge on the spot. He identified, speaking in English, the calls of at least eight bird species in a matter of a few minutes.

Not being a die-hard birder myself, just one who enjoys peering at them through binoculars from time-to-time, I appreciated learning the birds by their calls in their common English names, since the Spanish names are often too difficult for me to remember.

Services such as the birding guides will likely be the mainstay of the Alta Cima men's co-op. Alta Cima rests mid-way up the mountain road that carries tourists into the reserve. Entrepreneurs in the lower-altitude municipal capital town of Gómez Farías discovered that taking tourists into the reserve by four-wheel drive truck was a booming business opportunity.

On my first trip here in 1995 up until 1999 the best way to get from the tropical lowlands was either by driving your own high-clearance vehicle or by walking. Now there are over 30 trucks and drivers transporting tourists up to the higher elevations of the reserve, bypassing Alta Cima and the Hotel El Pino.

However, with specialized skills such as birding and guiding, the Cooperativo de los Hombres de Alta Cima now caters to the birding enthusiast. It may just be this sub-genre of ecotourist that offers sustainability to this community-based group's endeavors.


VISITING?

LOCATION -- Hotel El Pino is located within El Cielo Biosphere Reserve in Tamaulipas, Mexico. Alta Cima, the community in which the hotel is located, is a one and a half hour drive north of Cuidad Mante and a two-hour drive south of Ciudad Victoria, the capital of Tamaulipas.

Travel!

Bus service is available from either Cd. Mante or Cd. Victoria to Gómez Farías. Enter the reserve from the municipal capital (similar to a county seat) of Gómez Farías. From there you will either need a two- or four-wheel drive truck/SUV to drive yourself up the mountain road, or you can catch one of the numerous transportes de viajes trucks to Alta Cima.

Rooms at Hotel El Pino have sleeping configurations of bunk beds that sleep four to a room and three-person rooms with one double bed and one single bed. Each room has a hot shower (you must ask the caretaker to light the hot-water heater for you though), a toilet, a sink, and one florescent light operated by solar panel.


Scott Walker has also written A Practical Guide to El Cielo Biosphere Reserve and Death Ranks Sixth.


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