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The wildlife refuge covers an area of approximately 146,000
acres, composed of a rich variety of tropical habitats, including:
coastal dune vegetation, mangrove forest, low deciduous forest,
savannas and hardwood hummocks, (locally known as petenes).
The Celestún wildlife refuge was established by federal decree
in 1979 in order to protect the main feeding area for the non-breeding
population of the American Flamingo Colony, which nests along
the north coast of the Peninsula. At the same time, the protected
area conserves important habitat for countless species of both
migratory land and water birds, along with locally endemic and
endangered species.
According to the type of ecosystem that one wishes to visit
within the reserve, different modes of getting around are used.
Some sites must be visited by boat, while others are accessible
by car. There are some that are reached only on foot. In general,
the three most accessible habitats are: the coastal dune vegetation,
the mangroves and the low deciduous forest. The reserve can
be divided into three major areas: north, south and east.
Sites reached on foot:
The easiest sites to visit on foot are adjacent to the town
of Celestún. On the north side of town, one can reach the coastal
dune habitat. From the town's central plaza walk one block west
and turn right a block before arriving at the beach. This is
Calle 12 that runs parallel to the coast along the old road
to Sisal. Continue in this direction until you leave the town
behind and you will begin to see plants that characterize the
coastal dunes, such as Seagrape, Starbell (Siricote) , Gumbo
Limbo (Chacah), and Poisonwood (Chechem) . A note of caution
with the last species mentioned: do not attempt to touch or
rest beneath this tree because it has properties similar to
poison ivy in temperate regions of the world.
These are only a few of the plants that are typical of the
area. Once you are on the road, the most common birds that are
present year-round include: Tropical Mockingbird and Tropical
Kingbird, which are found at each step of the way. During the
spring and summer, the Brown-crested Flycatcher and White-winged
Dove are also common . Other common species found here are:
Northern Cardinal, especially during the breeding season, the
Golden-fronted Woodpecker,Grove-billed Ani, Common and Ruddy
Ground-Dove. Of course, there are other species, some of which
are not hard to find, such as Hooded and Altamira Orioles, Turquoise-browed
Motmot, Social and Vermilion Flycatcher, Rose-throated Becard,
Plain Chachalaca, Mangrove Vireo, Canivet's Emerald, Cinnamon
Hummingbird, and Ladder-backed Woodpecker.
But do not think that these are the only sightings you will
find along a one mile stretch. Celestún is the best place in
all of Yucatán to observe unique endemic birds of the coastal
dunes such as Yucatán Wren, Yucatán Bobwhite and Mexican Sheartail.
The first of these is easy to locate during the nesting season
that begins in the spring and last into summer. It is very noisy,
as is typical of the Campylorhynchus Genus.
The Bobwhite, like the Wren, is common during the spring-early
summer when we hear its typical call of "bob-white".
The female Mexican Sheartail is easily mistaken with the slightly
smaller female Canivet's Emerald and the female Ruby-throated
Hummingbird, the latter found only during the winter. The male
Mexican Sheartail is harder to see except during spring, when
it begins courting the female. This is a good opportunity to
add it to your list. White-lored Gnatcatcher is another species
that can be found in this part of the reserve. It is a year-round
resident and not difficult to spot. More difficult to find is
Mangrove Cuckoo, which is quite secretive. It is easy to mistake
it with Yellow-billed Cuckoo, a local resident species.
The beach and the pier
Another place of easy access on foot is the beach. Walk in
the same direction as mentioned previously but continue past
Calle 12 to the beach. Magnificent Frigatebird, Brown Pelican,
Double-crested Cormorant, Laughing Gull, Royal and Sandwich
Terns are some of the species you may find circling overhead.
From November through April, it pays to carefully observe the
flocks of gulls as familiar Herring and Ring-Billed Gulls visit
from the north temperate zone.
During the fall and spring migration, one has a good chance
of seeing Franklin's and Bonaparte's Gull. Continue your walk
another 200 yards toward the south to the pier. During these
seasons this is a good site to find: Common, Forster's and Black
Tern. During the summer, some Gull-billed Terns might be seen
here. While Least Tern is common during this season along the
coast. There's a chance that you may even find a species not
yet listed for the Reserve! even Sabine's Gull has been sighted
at this pier.
Main Street and the entrance to the port
Make the village park your point of departure and walk east
on the principal thoroughfare leading east towards the estuary.
Once outside the village proper, you will note that on either
side of the road there are low depressions, often filled with
water. When these flood over during the rainy season, there
is an even greater diversity of species. This is a good place
to observe herons and sandpipers. Black-necked Stilt is present
almost all year, except in the summer, and Mangrove Swallow
is common all year, nesting in the hollows of dry trees. Be
sure to check out the first tower on the right side of the road.
Bat Falcon has made this their favorite perch for scouting out
prey.
Early on in the fall migration, flocks of Least and Western
Sandpipers, along with Lesser and Greater Yellowlegs arrive,
but not in flocks as large as other species. Stilt Sandpiper,
Short-billed Dowitcher, Pectoral Sandpiper, Wilson's Phalarope,
and American Avocet can also be observed. White-rumped Sandpiper
arrive with the spring migration, and is rarely observed in
the fall. Beginning in November and extending through the month
of April, Snowy and Great Egrets, Tricolored and Little Blue
Herons, and White Ibis, are all common. Not as common, but also
present, are Roseate Spoonbill, Wood Stork, Blue-winged Teal,
and Reddish Egret. Among the remaining mangrove vegetation it
is possible to find Mangrove Warbler, Green Jay, Dusky-capped
Flycatcher, and some of the migratory species, such as the Northern
Parula, Common Yellowthroat, Northern Waterthrush, Black-and-White
Warbler, and Yellow Warbler. Of course one can also find the
coastal dune species mixed in along the way.
After walking for less than a mile, one arrives at the bridge
which crosses the estuary. If you cross it during low tide and
carefully look about near the edge of the mangrove, with some
luck you might see Gray-necked or Roufus-necked Wood-Rails.
The best time to traverse this route is early in the morning
or at dusk. On the other side of the bridge, on the mainland,
look into the mangroves for other possibilities, such as Bare-Throated
Tiger-Heron, the secretive Boat-billed Heron, and even for Pygmy
Kingfisher.
If you choose your car over a walk, drive slowly. The best
time to find migratory birds returning north in the spring is
from the end of April into the beginning of May. Indigo Bunting,
Blue Grosbeak, Painted Bunting, Summer Tanager, and Rose-breasted
Grosbeak, are found at the edge of the road. With lots of luck,
you might even spot an uncommon bird species, such as Dickcissel,
Bobolink, Grasshopper, Lark or Lincoln's Sparrow.
Village Park
If migratory birds are your purpose, you need not go that far
from town as the village park is an ideal site to find what
you are looking for. From the end of September through early
October, the primary concentration of fall migratory birds can
be found here. In addition, to the previously mentioned, here
is the best place to find Scarlet Tanager, Baltimore and Orchard
Orioles, Cedar Waxwing, Eastern Kingbird, Swainson's and Wood
Thrushes. During the spring migration, at the end of April and
beginning of May, the warblers are the protagonists, including
Blackpoll, Blackburnian, Tennessee, Blue-winged, Bay-breasted,
and Yellow-rumped, when they take over this park.
Places accessible by boat
South side of the reserve -- To visit this part of the
Reserve you should arrange to go with a boatman, who are easy
to find, given that they themselves will seek you out with an
offer of "a ride to the flamingoes." Most of the tourists
who visit Celestún do so in order to see these formidable birds.
But dedicated birdwatchers enjoy seeing much more in the Reserve,
where more than 300 birds have been registered within the area.
The boatmen are friendly, and some speak some English, but none
are experts in bird identification. However, they know the route
and will find you birds which most likely, you will have to
identify. (for professional guide services, contact Celestún
Expeditions - see information below.)
There are two groups of boatmen: those on the beach and those
located at the tourist center at the foot of the bridge. For
this next route, make arrangements with someone at the beach.
(Establish the price beforehand, as well as the time of departure).
The best time for this outing is early morning. Embarking at
the beach, ask the boatman to head south along the coast. After
passing the dock and before arriving at the entrance of a sheltered
harbor, ask your boatman to steer the boat close to the edge
and move slowly, because, in addition to the birds that have
been mentioned before, you will have the opportunity to observe
Brown Boobie, Sanderling, Willet and Black-bellied Plover. On
the rocks at the entrance to the sheltered harbor, you should
see Spotted Sandpiper and Ruddy Turnstone. After passing the
entrance to the harbor, continue to scan the water's edge and
the skyline. Turkey and Black Vultures are common, but Yellow-headed
Vulture and Zone-tailed Hawk may be there too, and they are
nice surprises.
The coast is good habitat in which to find Crested Caracara,
American Oystercatcher, as well as Snowy and Semipalmated Plovers.
Ask your boatman to stop in Nichili, which they know as "Punta
Pelicanos" or Pelican Point. This is an excellent spot
from which to observe numerous Black Skimmer, Caspian Tern,
Wilson's Plover, and wintering White Pelican.
Carefully observe the edge of this small bay, especially if
the tide is low. Sora and Clapper Rail could be added to your
list. Also with a great deal of luck, this is the only site
in entire Reserve where the Jabiru has been sighted. The variety
of shorebirds, aquatic and marine birds that can be found at
Punta Pelicanos makes this a must stop. Continue your tour until
you arrive at the "Petrified Forest". Merlin and Peregrine
Falcons have made this site their home away from home and they
are not hard to spot perched on the high branches of the dried
trees, together with the local and visiting Osprey. Here you
have another opportunity to spot Bare-Throated Tiger-Heron,
Gray-necked and Rufous-Necked Wood-Rails, in addition to Pygmy
Kingfisher among the mangroves. Be it at water's edge or perched
in the mangroves, you will find resident Yellow-crowned and
may be a visiting Black-crowned Night-Herons, as well as seeing
Anhinga and Neotropic Cormorant, which also "hang out"
on the north side of the Reserve.
For another boat tour, go to the tourist center located by
the estuary at the foot of the bridge, and be sure you explain
to the boatman that you want to see the flamingos as well as
other birds. Most people take this popular tour specifically
to see the flamingos.
During the winter months, beginning in November and continuing
into February, this is the best site and time of year to see
an endless variety of aquatic birds, both resident and migratory.
In addition to the herons that are mentioned above, migratory
ducks, such as, the Northern Shoveler, American Wigeon, Northern
Pintail, and Lesser Scaup may be spotted. Blue-winged Teal is
the most abundant.
Ask your boatman to travel slowly, and once you are close to
the mangroves, carefully look among the branches of the vegetation
for Bare-Throated Tiger-Heron you may have missed elsewhere.
Here you will have another chance as well as to observe the
very secretive, nocturnal Boat-billed Heron. No only look into
the mangroves but look up and more than likely you will find
one of the most common hawks in the reserve, Common Black Hawk.
There is also the possibility of seeing, among others, Crane
Hawk, Short-tailed Hawk, Zone-tailed Hawk perhaps even White-tailed
Hawk.
Continuing your tour, ask your boatman to take you to the Isla
de Pajaros (Bird Island), if the tide permits. This is a mangrove
islet near the edge of the estuary. Depending on the season,
it is an ideal place to see nesting herons and Double-crested
Cormorant, as well as other species that use the islet as a
roosting site. Early in the morning and late afternoon are the
best moments to visit. During the winter, Belted Kingfisher
is somewhat common within the mangrove canals throughout the
estuary.
American Coot is abundant during the Winter and can be seen
on the islet as well as the rare white-phase of Great-Blue Heron.
Generally, the flamingoes are found near the islet and are first
seen in the distance as a rose colored line. After observing
the flamingoes, you will arrive at the Mangrove Tunnel. Ask
the boatman to turn off the motor so that you can move silently,
without the distraction of the motor. From your seat at eye
level, look among the roots of the mangrove and there is an
80% chance that you will see Pygmy Kingfisher, to make your
day.
If you continue looking among the thick mangrove roots, you
will discover Green Heron. It is not an easy species to see,
but they can be heard clucking in the dense foliage. You may
also hear the unmistakable call of Ivory-billed Woodcreeper,
as well as Rufous-browed Peppershrike. If you are lucky, you
might even see a Limpkin. If you know how to imitate the call
of Ferruginous Pygmy Owl, practice it and you will see warblers
and vireos appear out of the dark depths of the mangrove.
Finally, you will arrive at Baldiosera, perhaps one of the
most beautiful and best site in the entire reserve for observing
birds. I recommend that you visit there early before the majority
of tourists visit the area. Baldiosera is a beautiful spring.
During low tide, and when the weather is not stormy, its waters
are crystalline and transparent, making a dip into them truly
a refreshing experience. During the summer and part of the fall,
don't be surprised to see the estuary waters dark red. This
is due to all the rain from the summer season that washes out
the tannins from the organic matter of the red mangroves.
This is the perfect site to find the Yellow-tailed, Yellow-backed
and Black-cowled Orioles, as well as Green and Pygmy Kingfishers.
Yellow-billed Cacique, Azte Parrakeet, Melodious Blackbird,
Golden-olive and Lineated Woodpeckers might also all be found
here, making an appearance at any moment. These are just a few
of the birds that can be seen at this site. If the place is
filled with tourists, ask the boatman to take you to Yax Ha,
the last stop on your tour. This is another spring, smaller,
but of the same value in terms of seeing bird species. Of course,
continue seeking everywhere, remembering that the birds are
in constant movement and difficult to predict.
Before visiting the above mentioned sites, as previously mentioned,
make your arrangements with the boatman. Another site that is
worth a visit is the Chan Banderas spring. It is outside the
usual circuit, but you can arrange with the boatman the time
and cost for taking you on this tour. Muscovy Duck, Boat-billed
and Tiger-Heron use this as their roosting site and perhaps
even for nesting.
Sites Accessible by Car
East Side Merida-Celestún Highway -- Once you are familiar
with Celestún, you will realize that the streets of the village
are quite easy to navigate. The town is relatively small and
easy to orient oneself. The village park continues to be the
point of departure, except that now you will head east, as if
headed for Merida. I recommend that you begin this tour very
early, given that it is the only highway connecting the Reserve
and as the day progresses traffic can become heavy. Once you
have crossed the bridge, slow down. The dominant vegetation
along the road is button mangrove interspersed on occasion with
cattail reeds until you reach the second curve in the road.
Here is where you have a good chance at finding Common Tody-Flycatcher,
Gray-crowned Yellowthroat, Scrub and Yellow-throated Euphonias,
Northern Beardless Tyrannulet, and Kiskadee. At the second curve,
look for a place to park.
Leave your car and as you study the vegetation you will realize
that the trees are much higher and the foliage much more dense
than closer to the coast. This is what is known as a "Peten",
islands of tropical trees that grow on the outcroppins within
the mangroves. This is an ideal site to find Squirrel Cuckoo,
Black-headed Trogon, Barred Antshrike, Northern Bentbill, Long-billed
Gnatwren, Blue-crowned Motmot, Buff-bellied Hummingbird, and
Bright-rumped Attila. With a lot of luck you may possibly even
find one of the region's most endangered game birds - Crested
Guan.
Of course, this is not the only Peten, which is an ecosystem
unique to the Yucatán Peninsula, Florida and Cuba, but there
are some very well preserved ones in the reserve. When the highway
was built, it crossed three of them. Continue driving east and
you will find two more Petens to explore along this stretch.
The third one is the largest. If you missed certain birds on
your first Peten, here is another chance to see them. Also,
there is the possibility of finding Masked Tityra, Clay-colored
Robin, Grayish Saltator, Boat-billed Flycatcher, Green Jay,
Yellow-backed, Yellow-tailed and Black-cowled Orioles, Greenish
Elaenia, Lineated Woodpecker, Ivory billed Woodcreeper as well
some warblers such as Worm eating, Hooded, Black thoated Green
and Kentucky.
As you proceed along your tour you will be aware of the changes
in the vegetation. Once outside the Reserve, the vegetation
is less dense and more open. Always check standing dead trees
as they often serve as perches for Laughing Falcon, Gray and
Roadside Hawks. During the summer, when the rains predominate
from June to August, one can usually find Limpkin, Snail Kite,
Black-bellied Whistling-Duck and Jacana in the flooded areas.
Near the road you will also find some man-made lagoons. These
are excellent places to find Ruddy Crake, Gray-necked Wood Rail,
Common Moorhen, and Ringed Kinfisher. During the summer, Gray-breasted
Martin and Rigway's Rough-winged Swallow may be seen in the
area.
Once you have passed these lagoons, low thorn forest becomes
the dominant vegetation. During the dry season from November
to April, the majority of the trees are leafless, giving a very
dry look to the landscape. This is a strategy to survive the
lack of water. However, during the rainy season everything turns
an intense green as the vegetation once more takes on a dense
foliage.
During the spring, Orange Oriole, a bird endemic to the Yucatán
Peninsula, is not difficult to see. The same can be said for
Zenaida Dove during summer, and Yucatán Jay, that is present
all year, along with the uncommon Yucatán Woodpecker and Yucatán
Flycatcher. Continue your tour until you reach the junction
with the road that leads to the town of Chunchucmil, (turn right
while headed in the direction of Merida). There is good vegetation
for the first 6 kilometers. Along this road. This is a good
place to be on the alert for Lesser Roadrunner. More easily
seen Blue-black and Yellow-faced Grassquits, White-collared
Seedeater, Lesser Goldfinch, Black-throated Saltator, and Blue-gray
Gnatcatcher. The habits of the White-bellied Emerald and Black
Catbird are not yet well known, but if they are to be found
in October, this is the place. The total tour covers about 25
kilometers.
Northside Coastal Dune Vegetation
If you have access to a car, I suggest that you follow the same
route as mentioned in Section A for the walking tour. Travel
about 4 kilometers and turn right onto a road that leads to
the salt lagoons. Continue along this same road, passing two
small salt works until you reach the large salt works. Do not
attempt to take a road that does not look well traveled. Obviously
you can stop every 300 meters or so when it is appropriate to
walk and check out the vegetation. When the salt works are covered
with water they are a good place to see shorebirds, especially
in August and October. The birds that are mentioned in section
A are also found along this road, in addition to other surprises.
Be on the lookout for a Great Black-Hawk, a forest species which
has been sighted in the other part of the salt works. Occasionally,
flamingos feed there.
Although we all know that birds are not easily predictable,
I hope that this small guide will serve to familiarize you with
the rich avifauna we have here in Celestún. We are proud of
our authentic, Mexican fishing port and our friendliness. all
of us here want very much to preserve the native charm of our
village, while making people like you welcome to watch birds
with us. We have enough lodging facilities and wonderful restaurants
line the beach, while the boats line up in the estuary to serve
your needs. Birdwatchers are especially welcomed!
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