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TALES FROM THE YUCATÁN

Gringo Madness: Adventures in Opening the Alma Libre Libros Bookstore in Mexico
by Jeanine Kitchel

MEXICO FORUM

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PHOTO GALLERY: afterwilma


MEXICO -- Imagine transporting 10,000 used books from San Francisco to Puerto Morelos, Mexico and then trying to clear customs without the proper paperwork.

In September l997 that was our first exposure to the world of owning and operating a used book store in Mexico - Alma Libre Libros.

Yes, we eventually managed to clear customs. We can only believe that after three weeks of looking at nearly 200 boxes of books on their dock, some customs official decided to clear the deck and release our books.

In our haste to depart our 9 to 5 jobs in San Francisco and make the big move to Mexico we followed a friend's advice on getting started in business here. "Don't bother to go to the Mexican Consulate before you come down," he told us. "Just ship the books and see what happens."

Although we could have received better advice, this wait and see attitude did do the trick. But clearing customs was only the beginning of the challenge to set up shop here. We had planned for many years to finally be at this point in opening a book store. For three years prior to our move to Puerto Morelos we had shopped on weekends at garage sales, thrift shops and Friends of the Library sales in the San Francisco area for used books. We soon ran out of space in our Half Moon Bay home and had to rent a Bekins Storage unit in nearby Redwood City.

I attended a weekend workshop at a local community college on how to start a used bookstore, and soon we were following a tried and true formula - in the US at least - on how to realize our dream. We set up the store on a buy-sell-trade basis which allows customers to trade in their used books for trade credit in the store. This generates new titles for the store, and allows the customer to read new books for little, if any, cost.

We learned what percentage of books to have in hardback versus paperback; how much fiction to carry, mystery, spy-adventure, science fiction, metaphysics, art, hobbies, and the list goes on.

Living near San Francisco proved very lucky in that we found an eclectic, intelligent mix of books and our customers comment frequently on the selection we offer.

Thinking ahead we had contacted our present landlord two years before we permanently moved to Puerto Morelos and asked him to put us in line for any opening in the shops he had available on the town square. He soon informed us that there would be an opening which would work nicely for us. We began paying rent in January l996 even though we knew we would not be able to escape city life until late in l997. But we knew location was important (on that note, many people ask us why we chose Puerto Morelos!) and we liked the feeling of facing the town park.

Our work was cut out for us soon after we arrived from our 4,500 mile drive through Mexico. We immediately began the process of getting our FM3, commonly know as working papers, through a notary. Although it only took three months for our immigration papers to be completed, it felt like a lifetime as we had to make, at times, daily trips to the notary's office in Cancún to give and retrieve information due to his failure to inform us of proper procedures.

Meanwhile, the books sat in our yet unopened store. We had the walls painted a bright mustard yellow and the window trims were painted Mayan turquoise blue.

The next trauma awaiting us was having our bookshelves made. We needed to accommodate both hardbacks and paperbacks, and decided to go floor-to-ceiling in pine wood. As luck would have it, by the time our carpenter purchased the wood, we had torrential rains for two straight weeks. This was now early December, and we were chomping at the bit to start alphabetizing and sorting our books, all l0,000 of them. As we alphabetized, the carpenter began to bring in shelves and told us not to stack books on them for two more days to allow the wood to dry completely. We waited, then cut strips of cardboard and tacked those onto the shelves first - for safety's sake - in case the shelves were not dry.

Excitedly we began placing books on shelves after four days of tiresome alphabetical sorting. We were eager to see the fruits of our labors shelved and ready on the beautiful new wooden shelves. We had begun early in the morning that day and pushed ourselves to finish placing all fiction books on the shelves, plus spy- adventure - another large section of books. Around 6 pm that night we were breaking for dinner and Paul happened to touch the cardboard under one section . To our chagrin it was thoroughly soaked - just waiting to reach our books. Nightmare on Elm Street! Like two maniacs who had just seen Freddie Kruger, we tore our treasured books off the shelves trying desperately to keep some semblance of order after four days of sorting. Tension was high. Now what to do! Tourist season was upon us. We had bookshelves, but they were hardly usable at this stage.

So we did what any normal thinking person would do - we brought out hairdryers early the next day and tried to dry them like a shag haircut. When that didn't work, as soon as the sun made an appearance a few days later, Paul broke down the shelves and pulled them into the street to dry the old fashioned way - with sun power. We can only imagine what the locals were thinking: crazy gringos. Here we were dragging wet planks of wood into the street. What a backwards way to begin a business!

Since patience was neither of our virtues, that next week dragged by painfully. We cut more cardboard and re-tacked it to the shelves. A couple days later all our books were off the floor and on display. On December 20, l997 - just in time for the winter equinox - we opened our doors to customers.

We were astounded at the goodwill we received in opening our store. Even though our books were primarily in English, many local people here read two languages, Spanish and English. And we immediately started trading books so that we could accumulate a number of books in Spanish, German, Italian and French.

The next week we searched Cancún for a dehumidifier for the store. Equipped with a relative humidity indicator, and now a dehumidifier, we managed to control the stores' humidity to the perfect temperature for books - about 50 percent humidity - as explained to us by the manager of Green Apple Books, San Francisco. Any more humidity and the pages do not retain their crispness; any less humidity and the crowns of the books begin to crack and break. We try to retain as perfect a temperature as possible in the store to keep our books in mint condition.

Every April through August we now plan to make a trip back to the US for our big book buying spree. We will bring in at least 4000 "new" used books to add to the store's inventory this coming fall. This is in addition to the l6,000 books we have now accumulated plus our new books on the Maya, Maya culture, pyramids, Latin fiction, ecology and the environment, birds, mammals, fish, the reef. We offer books written by local authors, maps on Mexico, Belize and Guatemala, and various guide books.

Our job in book shopping is to find the eclectic, avant-garde reading material for our customers. So far we think we are filling the bill. But come see our store and give us your opinion. Sign up for our mailing list so we can send you a reminder to bring in six used books (current titles) when you come to visit.


ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Jeanine Lee Kitchel lives in Puerto Morelos. Her recent travel memoir, Where the Sky is Born: Living in the Land of the Maya, is available at bookstores or at Amazon.com. Jeanine is a frequent contributor to Planeta with her Tales from the Yucatán series.

Contact Jeanine via email or through her Yucantales website.

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