| If you'd traveled to the Yucatan city Valladolid
150 years ago chances are you'd have received a very different
reception than the one you'll receive today.
Situated in the heart of Maya land, Valladolid was then the
most elitist and race conscious city in the Yucatan.
The city was founded by Francisco de Montejo, who had been
gifted all land east of Mérida
by his ambitious uncle (founder of Merida) of the same name.
After Montejo the younger explored the area, he established
a base next to the lagoon Chouac-Ha, and named the city that
would soon spring up around it Valladolid.
SETTING THE STAGE FOR REVOLUTION
His next move, which would shape events for centuries to come,
authorized land grants to well-connected Spaniards, displacing
the indigenous Maya who lived there. Then began arbitrary acts
of domination: land grabbing, indentured servitude for the Maya,
and abolishing water rights, which set the stage for the coming
revolution.
In what would become a continuous cycle, the Valladolid Spaniards
subjugated Mayan tribes and constantly battled them for dominion
as they rose up in rebellion. Then they crushed the rebellions
and the Maya rose again, culminating in 1847 in the bloody massacre
known as the Caste War of Yucatan.
THE PILLAGING OF VALLADOLID
The Maya rose up in revolt, marched on Valladolid, raping,
burning and pillaging, and pushed back the remaining Spaniards
into the convent of Saint Bernardino de Siena, still viewable
today, at the south end of the city. Here they waited for troops
to arrive from Merida to save them from the marauding masses.
Talk about a disastrous history .
The entire city is like a historical footnote to the past,
crammed with nail biting tales, charming, brightly painted buildings
from another century, and quaint streets that show a bygone
era, especially when you consider its proximity to Cancun's
own marauding masses. (Valladolid is 160 kilometers southwest
of Cancún).
COLORFUL HUIPILES
A trip toValladolid makes for a modern day adventure to an
ancient Maya city that's transcended its weary past. But now
rather than disruptive elements, diminutive Maya women arm stalls
stocked with colorful huipiles, the Maya costume for women still
popular in many parts of the Yucatan, and white embroidered
handkerchiefs.
Mild mannered vendors sell sodas and balloons from tricycles,
and pushcarts offer antojitos and corn on the cob (elote). On
weekends giant tour buses line the picturesque square in high
season when all- inclusive tourists escape for a day from the
Riviera Maya enroute to Chichen Itza, which is only 30 minutes
away.
WALKING TOUR
But if you've come to visit Valladolid, chances are you want
to settle into the Maya way of life, if only for a couple days.
It's easy to do here. Start with a walking tour of the main
plaza, at the landmark Iglesia de San Servacio church that was
pillaged during the Caste War.
Its two towering spires reach high into the startling blue
sky. Then walk down to the corner where you'll find the Municipal
Palace, a tan-colored government building with double wooden
doors. Head upstairs and you'll discover frescoes painted by
a local artist very much in the style of those at the Palace
of the Governor in Merida, but on a more intimate scale. The
frescoes represent different eras out of Valladolid's history.
Continue your walking tour past the Bazar Municipal which
has 10 small fast food restaurants serving local cuisine (salbutos,
panuchos, tortas) for miniscule prices. A few funky artisan
shops also sell their wares. If you eat here, make sure to have
spare change for vendors selling fresh honey (you'll never find
fresher) or oranges. And save a couple pesos for the local blind
man who is led from table to table by his goodhearted grandson
who carries his cane and a small ceramic cup for contributions.
If you make a "direct deposit," your karma will shoot
upwards exponentially. Hand to God.
EL MESON DEL MARQUES
A world apart is the lovely hotel El Meson del Marques next
door which serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. If you didn't
grab a quick bite at the Bazaar, and want a more relaxed meal,
this is the spot for it. Take advantage of the gorgeous outdoor
garden restaurant with manicured trees and fountain in the center
courtyard.
Continue on to Las Cinco Calles (Street of Fives) which will
lead you down Calzada de los Frailes, an extremely picturesque
street with colonial architecture, heading towards the ex-convent
of San Bernardino de Siena, where the Spanish held off the Maya
in 1847. If the priest is around, ask for a tour of the 16th
century frescoes behind the altarpiece, and look for the ancient
water wheel and gardens out back. This was not just a monastery,
this was a walled in city.
In front of the looming ex-convent is a lovely grassy park
where locals and visitors sit on blankets in good weather and
eat or chat or while away the day. Life is pretty slow in Valladolid.
CENOTE ZACI
When you've had enough of monasteries and churches (there
are seven total in town), continue your walking tour to the
Cenote Zaci. It's quite a ways from the convent, but you'll
meander through Valladolid's back streets, and catch a view
of real life in a Maya town, past neat houses, small stores,
sleeping dogs, kids playing in the street.
The cenote is behind a stone wall, (Calle 36 and 37) surrounded
by tall trees, with a wooden walkway all around it and a restaurant
perched at the top, which offers a full view of the water. If
you venture down, wear sensible shoes as the deck gets slippery.
At the water's edge you'll see stalactites and stalagmites.
And if Valladolid isn't enough for you, take a short half
hour drive north to the pyramids at Ek
Balam. It's a fun drive away from the city.You'll pass though
one or two small pueblos, and the site with its acropolis pyramid
will awe you. |
