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Natural beauty makes these islands ideal for
a guidebook called "Adventures in Nature." Sculpted by ice ages
and eroded by wind, rain, and waves, the archipelago has complex,
dramatic topography, exotic plant life, and unique species of
animals.
Geologists claim New Zealand's 270,534 square kilometers
of land mass stands above the Pacific and the Indian-Australian
plates. North Island has three active volcanoes, all within
Tongariro National Park. Visitors can hikeacross mountain saddles
between volcanic peaks, or explore surreal landscapes with geysers
and bubbling mud pools. White Island, another active volcano
within this geothermal region, can be seen offshore. On South
Island, rocky material uplifted from the Alpine Fault has been
pushed northward, forming peaked mountain ranges and unusual
rock forms. Other distinctive stone formations can be seen along
the coasts. In the region known as Fiordland, advancing and
receding glaciers have created dramatic coastal fiords.
The Maoris who arrived more than 1,000 years ago in great,
sea-going canoes named it the Land of the Long White Cloud.
When Maoris first settled here, an estimated 78% of the land
was covered with native forests. New Zealand's earliest inhabitants
built dwellings of natural materials, fished and hunted for
moa (large, flightless birds now extinct), and traveled long
distances to hunt game and search for greenstone.
The first Europeans came in large sailing ships. The Dutch
explorer Abel Tasman named the islands and Captain James Cook
charted New Zealand's coasts. Whalers, sealers, and other pioneers
followed, eventually depleting the populations of sperm whales,
New Zealand fur seals and other species. Later, residents imported
various plants and animals experimentally to determine what
might grow. Gorse, which is not indigenous to New Zealand, is
just one of many examples of an intrusive plant that thrived
in the new environment.
Before humans began encroaching on various habitats, unique
species like the tuatara, a reptile, and an insect known as
the giant weta developed in isolation. Although New Zealand
has a reclusive, poisonous spider, called the katipo--which
I've never seen--campers /hikers do not encounter snakes. Colorful
parakeets, and larger, flightless birds like the takahe developed
without native predators. Formerly thought to be extinct, takahe
were rediscovered mid-19th century in remote, mountainous Fiordland.
Roughly 84% of New Zealand's plant species are endemic: they
exist nowhere else in the world. Fern trees, cabbage trees,
giant kauri trees, unusual beech forests and craggy pohutukawas
grow naturally here. Also, rare blue mushrooms, green orchids
and white alpine blossoms can be found -- if you know where
to look.
Thus, the focus of visitors and residents has always been
nature, and New Zealand's tourism industry dates from the late
19th century. On North Island tourists once enjoyed boat rides
past the lovely Pink and White Terraces ... before an eruption
of Mount Tarawera buried these natural wonders. Maori guides
began leading visitors into the intricate Waitomo Cave system
over a century ago and accompanied them on horseback past geysers,
craters, and mud pools. On South Island, outdoorsmen led early
hiking parties along the rainy Milford Track to view Milford
Sound ... before the Milford Road, and long before Goretex!
Before the 19th century ended, tourists were cruising Lake Wakatipu
on a specially-built steamer.
During the 20th century, much recreation was extractive --
and some still is. Over the years, anglers have cast for trout
in lakes and streams, and sportsmen have sought marlin in the
Pacific. Hunter/predators have shot red deer, wapiti, andother
introduced species for food, for trophies and/or to keep the
numbers in check.
During my first visit to New Zealand in 1986, I asked a tourism
official whether any Maoris were tour operators. He responded
by suggesting that I travel -- and then write about -- some
pakeha (non-Maori) operators he knew of. Fortunately, I learned
about Te
Urewera Adventures (formerly Te Rehuwai Safaris) without
his help. Soon afterward, I spent five wonderful days trekking
with the Maoris along the Whakatane River. In early spring,
we found tiny, wild strawberries growing beside the trail. Fields
of lupine were lush with violet and mauve blossoms. In the distance,
we could see exotic foliage on the slopes of the moody Urewera
mountains. When frequent rains came, we often found a ponga
tree -- which can grow as big as a market umbrella -- and used
it for shelter. Our trail guide, named Moko, led us along seldom-used
tracks through remote mountain country. By the time we arrived,
our hosts had the tents in place, water boiling for afternoon
tea and dinner on its way. While we spent each day hiking with
only day packs, all the heavy gear was transported by horseback
from one camp to the next.
FOCUS ON NEW ZEALAND ECOTOURISM INDEX
New Zealand Natural History
- The Focus Has Always Been Natural History
New
Zealand Tourism Q&A
- What is nature tourism in New Zealand? What are the bioregions?
Who are the conservationists? What's at stake? Which New Zealanders
make nature tourism a priority?
Places
- New Zealand's North Island: The Tree House
- South Island: Awaroa Lodge and Cafe
- South Island: Arthur's Pass Wilderness Lodge
Helpful
New Zealand Books and Web Sites
Recommended reading
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