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NEW ZEALAND

New Zealand Tourism Q&A
by Sally McKinney

PLANETA FORUM

Focus on New Zealand Ecotourism synthesizes nature tourism and ecotourism in this Pacific nation.

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PHOTO GALLERY: Ferns


WHAT IS NATURE TOURISM IN NEW ZEALAND?

As in other countries, nature tourism means various things to assorted entrepreneurs and individual travelers.

To some tour operators, scenic helicopter flights, or jet boat races over rocky streams, qualify as nature experiences. Other people who operate nature tours believe that wind-propelled (sailing) and self-propelled methods of exploring -- hiking, climbing, caving, rapelling (called abseiling in New Zealand), paddling and so forth are the most satisfying means of exploring a natural setting. Still others believe that wilderness experiences -- working on possum control, for example -- that enhance the environment are the best nature experiences of all.

"Adventures in Nature: New Zealand" describes 71 different nature adventures that can be done independently, with the help of outfitters, or on guided tours. Each adventure takes place in some distinctive, usually very lovely, area in this island country. In selecting adventures for the book, I looked at low-impact eco-friendly travel options for travel and touring, as well as dining and lodging. Woven into the fabric of each adventure are details about the geology, plants, and animals to be found in each area.

Here are questions an eco-sensitive traveler needs to ask:

Does a cafe manager or tour operator hire local people, treat them with respect, and pay them a living wage? Does the business generate unnecessary trash? Does lodging business use a heritage building, or build with renewable, local materials? Inquire about the energy sources. Some of the Maori hangi feasts are cooked in the traditional manner, and take place in carved meeting houses. Does the cafe serve regional foods, and especially, vegetarian or vegan food? How -- and where -- is waste disposed of during a lovely Hauraki Gulf sailing cruise? Also ask, does the tour operator live in -- and contribute to -- the local community? And does the owner/operator want to share his/her enthusiasm about nature, or seem more focused on increasing personal wealth at your expense.

New Zealand Nature Safaris (NZNS) has been getting high marks for their eco-sensitive travel. Their Kiwi guides have grown up exploring the country's craggy coastlines, rushing rivers, lush rain forests, glaciers, caves, and fiords. The emphasis is on hiking, but they include other experiences, like bathing in secluded thermal pools. NZNS guides will keep you away from crowds while letting you enjoy special, hidden places with no other campers in sight. Tours involve small groups only; trips depart each week in season and visit different parts of the country. Check out web site http://www.hikingnewzealand.com.

WHAT ARE THE BIOREGIONS?

For a country about the size of Colorado, New Zealand has surprisingly varied life zones. They range from subtropic in the north, to subantarctic in the south. Off North Island's Pacific coast, warmed by the Auckland current, divers move amid colorful maomao and black angelfish at Poor Knights, one of Jacques Costeau's favorite dive sites. Yet along South Island's sea coast, little yellow-eyed penguins feed in coastal waters by day, then waddle across the beach at dusk to reach their burrows.

The country's irregular coastline is 15,811 kilometers long and no place is farther than 70 miles from the sea. Yet, that doesn't mean you can move swiftly from mountain tops to ocean beaches -- for in the rugged back country, there may be no roads! Geological activity has moved, twisted, tortured and scattered the land masses, so the entire archipelago -- comprised of about 700 islands -- includes many areas of sculptured and beautiful terrain.

Just as the life zones are spread across the latitudes, New Zealand's life forms vary from the depths of the sea to the mountain heights. Dolphins, orcas, whales and other marine life feed in a 1,000-meter trench off the Kaikoura coast, while rare alpine flowers grow on the slopes of 3,764 meter Mount Cook. So, in New Zealand, you'll find unusual species that developed in isolation over time and thrive at particular latitudes and altitudes.

WHO ARE THE CONSERVATIONISTS?

About 30% of New Zealand is publicly owned land, including national parks, forest parks, scenic and scientific reserves; the Department of Conservation (DOC) administers this land. The DOC also manages protected native species wherever they are, provides huts for hikers on long, challenging trails and develops a limited amount of tourist infrastructure. Maori-owned lands include nature reserves and sacred sites like Ketatahi Springs, along the route known as Tongariro Crossing, but off-limits to curious hikers.

In 1993, New Zealand signed the Convention of Biological Diversity, agreeing to conserve the country's existing biological diversity; to assure the use of species, genetic material, and living systems can be sustained long-term; and to share the benefits from genetic resources fairly and equitably. Thus, you'll find the DOC involved in various programs for protecting birds, plants, freshwater fish, and invertebrates. The DOC also supervises possum control programs and supervises recreational hunting, used to keep populations of imported deer in check. Occasionally, the DOC gives film companies permission to use certain sites for locations -- not everyone agrees with this use of public lands. For more information about the powerful DOC, visit their web site at http://www.doc.govt.nz/index.htm

WHAT'S AT STAKE?

Since humans arrived, changes in the beautiful New Zealand landscape have resulted in the extinction of more than 50 species. Several hundred of the remaining species are threatened with extinction in the next 50 years, claims the DOC. Because native species evolved in the absence of predators, some species developed characteristics like flightlessness (the takahe bird) or giantism (an insect called the giant weta) and others became long-lived and slow breeding (a reptile called the tuatara). These characteristics leave them less able to defend themselves against introduced predators (like rats, possums, and stoats), while human settlement continues to encroach on their habitats.

Fortunately, the Royal Forest and Bird Protection Society, World Wild Fund for Nature, Yellow-eyed Penguin Trust, New Zealand Native Forests Restoration Trust, Native Forest Action and other groups receive support from various benefactors and volunteers. Claims Shaun Barnett in New Zealand Wilderness Magazine "We're certainly blessed in this country ... but visitors to the backcountry see everything as beautiful, pristine ... the untouched image is entirely false." Read more about this at http://www.surfingnz.com/augustissue/augeditorial.html

WHICH NEW ZEALANDERS MAKE NATURE TOURISM A PRIORITY?

New Zealand's democratic government makes nature tourism a priority through the Department of Conservation (DOC). Visit their web site at http://www.doc.govt.nz/index.htm The DOC has a head office, regional and conservancy offices, and a network of field centers around the country.

These field centers are great resources; you can study giant topo maps on the walls, and get free information and advice, as well as buy good books and maps. The DOC also maintains a network of 960 backcountry huts and can also answer questions about outfitters, or about shuttle services or small boats used as transports to trailheads.

DOC policies now limit the number of hikers each day to 40 people on the Milford Track and other Great Walks. This limit on carrying capacity, designed to protect the lush environment of the most popular tracks from an array of overseas visitors, doesn't entirely suit outdoor-loving Kiwis. New Zealander residents believe they should have access to their own public lands. Some New Zealanders believe -- along with naturalist John Muir -- that people need to encounter wilderness in all its wonder so they can appreciate it. Others work hard to protect and enhance New Zealand's lovely environment and would prefer that international visitors stay home.

FOCUS ON NEW ZEALAND ECOTOURISM INDEX

g New Zealand Natural History
- The Focus Has Always Been Natural History

g New Zealand Tourism Q&A
- What is nature tourism in New Zealand? What are the bioregions? Who are the conservationists? What's at stake? Which New Zealanders make nature tourism a priority?

g Places
- New Zealand's North Island: The Tree House
- South Island: Awaroa Lodge and Cafe
- South Island: Arthur's Pass Wilderness Lodge

g Helpful New Zealand Books and Web Sites
Recommended reading


AUTHOR

Sally McKinney is travel writer who continues to explore the world with the same enthusiasm she felt at age eleven when pedaling her bicycle into unknown countryside. The author of Adventures in Nature: New Zealand can be reached via email



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