Some think of it as
the perfect honeymoon, others will tell you about the
last stand for unique tropical cloud forests, and animals
the likes of which you've never seen. A few dudes know
it as the endless wave and the perfect beach. Costa Rica
is all these things, and a regional industrial giant. It's also
rumored to be home to more species of birds than all the continent
of Africa. For me, though, tales of Costa Rica will always
begin in Chirripo National Park.
Located in the mountains south of San Jose, not far from the
Panamanian border, Chirripo National Park is Costa Rica's largest,
and contains Costa Rica's highest peak, the 3,498-meter Cerro
Chirripo. Its ecological wealth astounds the visitor.
Layer after totally unique layer of ecosystems are stacked and
scattered across the steep mountainside leading to the quasi-lunar
plains near its summit. Exotic insects and flora abound, between
stands of bamboo and vines reminiscent of Tarzan flicks.
Chirripo provides visitors ecological diversity as meditative
and transfixing as the famed cloud forests of Monte Verde, without
the crowd.
From town, the ascent into the park is a brutal, often muddy
(rainforest, surprise!), 8-10 hour walk through rich,
misty forest. Many hikers begin the climb at 5:30 am,
which locals say will get you past the steep open plains at
the bottom, and into the shade of tree cover before the sun
fries you like a, well, like a bug. An early departure
also increases the chance of arrival before afternoon rainstorms
sweep the area in a cold fury.
The landscape is truly amazing.
A few hours into the hike there is a simple, open cabin in the
forest, where clean drinking water flows on tap. Some
hikers choose to overnight here, and others just use the spot
for a lunch stop. The climb goes on from here, up and
up, until opening onto the rocky plains near the top.
Soon, as the twin strangleholds of fatigue and high altitude
creep toward your jugular, you arrive at base camp.
The 10,000 foot base camp, run by the national park system,
is a jumping-off point for the further exploration the soul
craves when allowed to run free in a place so untouched, and
seemingly so close to the sight of all creation. The base camp
is the flagship of Costa Rica's national park services, with
mountain cabins that are simple, yet equipped with innovative
installations for running water, flush toilets,
and even a cold shower. Open camping is officially prohibited,
so enjoy this place. With the help of donkeys, and a helicopter,
a solar powered lighting system was brought in and installed
to provide light for evening discussion and cooking. After
dinner, relax and watch the stars take over the sky while talking
with travellers from around the world. This is an experience
not to be passed up, or forgotten.
The actual summit, or Cerro Chirripo, is just a few hours' walk
from the base camp. Most travelers leave their bags
behind and make the final ascent a day trip on their second
day, then returning to the base of the mountain on the third
day. The route to the summit is desolate and foreboding, and
brings to mind scenes of Death Valley and similar sea-level
spots. But up here the thin air burns the lungs, and the sun
becomes a behemoth sun-block penetrating fireball that reminds
you with every step that you are approaching 12,000 feet, at
ten degrees off the equator.
When you've had enough, turn around and head down to San Gerardo
de Rivas, the town at the bottom of the hill that is the start
point for hikes into the park. It is a town famed mostly
as the start point for the hike into Chirripo, though some travelers
visit just to relax in these cool, windswept hills. theThe
slopes around town are steep, and adorned with jewels of coffee
and banana that sparkle through cloud cover. I'll spare
you the nature imagery. When you arrive you will see that this
place speaks for itself. Towns like San Gerardo de Rivas
are the reason why Costa Rica is known as the Switzerland of
Central America, as much for beauty as for the productivity
and innovation of the populace.
Though tourism has for years been part of life for San Gerardo
de Rivas's 800 inhabitants, the community is not numbed by it,
or oblivious to it. They have seen travelers come and
go, yet with a curious look they still welcome each one. Two
American women we met on the bus ride to San Gerardo de Rivas
were volunteer teaching English in the local grade school just
a few days after arrival. After settling into a room in
a house beside a near creek, they quickly decided to stay and
teach for a couple of months. The community was all for the
whimsical plan.
The people of San Gerardo de Rivas are friendly, and unlike
many locales where tourists are a fixture, its not because they
want your money. They just want you to appreciate their
environment, and they will take the time to show it to you.
WHAT TO BRING
We arrived at the base camp after eight hours' walk, the last
three in the rain. Soaked to the bone and chilled to about
38 degrees F, we exhibited the slurred speech of first-stage
hypothermia. Be prepared. Pack your belongings in
plastic bags, especially your sleeping bag. The guide
books speak the truth here: even in Centroamerica it is cold
up top. A stove is essential, for hot meals and tea to
warm your bones. Bring enough food for an extra day so
that when the mystique of the place suddenly hits you, you will
have the necessary provisions to explore further. And
don't forget sun block.
Don't be daunted by all this enduro-camper talk, this place
is for non-athletes too. Before we arrived at the base camp,
a fifteen person group of seniors made it in -- ages 62 and
up. They were chipper, and they beat us youngsters up the hill.
When you do make it to Costa Rica, there will be travelers
with stories to tell. There will be the allure of volcanoes,
and bars by the beach. Real Italian Pizzerias will call to you
from Playa Nosara, and Manuel Antonio, while howler and spider
monkeys dance in the treetops nearby. Sumptuous Caribbean
curries will tempt you to the north, while surfing may draw
you to the South. If you have time, see all these things,
and Chirripo. Chirripo National Park has all the elements of
an adventure waiting to happen. Beauty, cuisine, accommodation
and a formidable challenge.
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