Chichirivichi: Tantos Cayos
Beach going is Chichirivichiis main staple. Escape the heat
and enjoy tranquillity and a breeze at one of the keys a few
minutes boat ride off the coast. Launches are avilable from
the Chichirivichi waterfront, however prices are better from
just around the corner at the docks just a few blocks west.
To get there, face the waterfront in town and go right on the
only main street paralleling the shore. Tickets are sold through
a cooperative ticket booth at the docks and prices are posted
in paint on a wall mural there.
Prices are generally by the boatload, so if you have a group
you save bolivares and you can arrange for your boat to pick
you up at a certain time to bring you back. In our experience
the boaters were prompt, and did their jobs with alot of pride.
A sort of organized day trip is available to quickly visit something
like five keys and the area bordering the lagoon just east of
Chichi. Other travelers said this tour is too rushed, so even
if you are pressed for time it might be best to visit two destinations
unhurriedly rather than eight at lightning speed.
Cayo Sal
A dry and salty lagoon lends the name to this sizable key. Cay
Sal gets a bad rap for being the most trafficked, but has a
snack bar, great people watching, and sanctioned camping. If
you enjoy sleeping beneath Caribbean skies, consider camping
on Cayo Sal. Permits are available from the Inparques office
in town, and hammocks can be rented also. We hear there
are fewer mosquitoes out here than in town because the winds
blow them away.
Cayo Peraza
The allure here is tranquility, and it takes just two minutes
to walk around this key. There were just six of us here. Each
picked a palm to sit beneath and read a book. At one point a
guy boated up to sell us excellent coconut ice cream.
Cayo Muerto
The less-exposed, inland-facing side of this island has the
best swimming but can be a bit crowded. The other side gets
a nice wind and is tranquil. We enjoyed this key the most.
Chichi Restaurants
Follow Chichiis main street down to the waterfront, where it
Tis with another. On your right is a fancy-looking marisqueria
(restaurant specializing in shellfish) run by a Basque man we
hear fled presecution by the Spanish E.T.A. On your left is
an unassuming yellow-fronted restaurant. Eat here. Try the Sopa
de Auyama, a deep orange-colored squash soup that is absolutely
fabulous. Of the many fish plates they offer, I had the Rodil
al Ajillo con Patate. This was without question one of the two
most satisfying meals I had in Venezuela.
Unless you are desperate or allergic to seafood, skip the hopping-looking
waterfront pizza place a few doors down past the Basque Marisqueria.
Back in town a simple roaster near the main bus stop has excellent
pollo al brazo, roasted chicken, served with sides of yucca.
For desert, try the authentic, fully imported, air-conditioned,
Italian-run Gelateria on the unpaved main street through town.
This anachronism is to die for.
Chichi Accommodation
We stayed at the simple Posada Delia, run by matronly
Delia Labala at Calle Meriño #5. Delia shares her kitchen
with guests, thus you may find yourself eating with her son,
a clean-cut local fisherman, or some of the extended family.
Rumor has it that a place on the unpaved main drag through
Chich has air conditioning. Also highly recommended is the newly
renovated Posada El Profe, run by a young former graphic designer
named Aminta who fled Caracas and set her mind to running this
place, her grandmother's old house, instead.
Near Chichi: Parque Nacional Morrocoy
The best-known local tourist destination is Morrocoy, with some
of the best bird-watching in Venezuela. For better or worse,
many visitors come only to see the flamingos that gather here:
this place merits further exploration. Many other species flit
about the wetlands extending inland, and an elaborate tour is
highly recommended. If bird watching is your thing, it's best
to be equipped with adequate guide materials, as these
may be hard to find locally.
Choroni / Puerto Colombia
Just over the hill from Maracay, Choroni is a somewhat hopping
beach town with pounding waves that you can body-surf along
with schools of fish. Our arrival by bus took about three hours
and was a true roller coaster rocking to a salsa beat. Avoid
sitting near the speakers on your bus, unless you generally
live your life like MTV. Cresting the coastal mountains, the
road descends through Parque Nacional Henri Pittier in all its
splendor.
Choroni is a nice town, though it's actually three kilometers
from coastal Puerto Colombia. Bird watchers favor staying closer
to Parque Nacional Henri Pittier in Choroni, beach-goers overnight
in Puerto Colombia.
Both towns are common weekend getaways for Caraqueños
and other Venezuelans, so reserving a room in advance is recommended.
Fortunately, there are many small hotel-inns, though some give
little bank for your buck. Puerto Colombia's main beach is busy,
but there are several small restaurant-stalls that serve excellent
Rueda de Carite al ajillo, a local fish.
Hidden Beach at Choroni: Playa Escondida
Shh. You're not supposed to know about this place. A rigorous
walk over the hill from Puerto Colombia will get you to the
total isolation of Playa Escondida. From Puerto Colombia, walk
out of town on the main road to Choroni. After less than a kilometer,
at a junction with a small bridge, a road branches right bound
for the cemetary. Take this road uphill about a kilometer.
Past the cemetary and at the top of the hill, an obvious trail
begins and heads downhill to Playa Escondida. Make sure to bring
whatever you plan to need for the day, the walk is a hot but
rewarding few kilometers. |
