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WEAVING THE WEB

The Texas-Mexico-Asia Connection
A Conversation with Joe Cummings
by Ron Mader

CONVERSATIONS

The following is a Q&A conducted online and updated in 2004.

Joe

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Born in New Orleans and raised in Texas, California, France, and Washington, DC, Joe Cummings has been writing about travel and culture for nearly two decades.

Attracted to geographical extremes, his first in-depth journeys occurred in the river deltas and rainforests of Southeast Asia, where he worked as a Peace Corps volunteer (Thailand) and university lecturer (Malaysia), and later authored acclaimed guidebooks on Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, the Philippines, Burma, Laos, Indonesia and China.

Joe became infatuated with desert terrain while exploring the Sierra del Carmen and Chihuahuan Desert reaches of Texas' Big Bend Country for Texas Handbook (Moon Travel Handbooks).

His love of South Texas border culture, especially norteña music and food, eventually spilled over into Mexico, and he now publishes four Moon guidebooks on the country: Baja Handbook, Cabo Handbook, Northern Mexico Handbook, and Mexico Handbook.

After covering over 75,000 miles of Mexican roads by car and four-wheel drive, Joe recently became a full-time resident of Mexico, although he continues to travel in other parts of the world.

When did you make your first trip to Mexico and what brought you to this country?

A good part of my childhood was spent in San Antonio, Texas, and my family always made one trip a year to one of the border towns. I can remember buying raspados in Nuevo Laredo as a kid, and ate my first taco in that town as well, sometime in the early 1960s. After that I always preferred tacos to burgers, so my mom had to learn how to make them -- well ahead of the Mexican food craze that later hit America in the 1970s!

I made my first driving trip into the interior in 1973 with a buddy from college and have been traveling in Mexico on and off ever since.

How did you get involved in writing the Moon guidebooks to Mexico?

My first Moon guide, Texas Handbook, took me to every town along the Texas-Mexico border and that experience -- along with the general re-introduction to Mexican culture that came with travel in south Texas -- led me to pitch the idea of doing a Northern Mexico guide in 1990. After a lot of background research and travel within a nine-state area stretching from the border down to as far south as San Luis Potosi and Zacatecas, the first edition was finally released in 1994.

How receptive was your publisher to a title about the Northern Border?

The Texas guide turned out to be quite successful (even though back in 1989 everyone was saying you couldn't sell a guidebook to Texas), so Moon figured I knew what I was doing. I sent them a proposal that presented Northern Mexico as part of a greater geocultural region shared by Texas, the U.S.. Southwest, and Mexico.


I also knew there was a great deal of interest in Northern Mexico among residents of the US border states, many of whom were willing to drive in Mexico if they could find places worth seeing within a day or two's drive from the border.

You have said that your favorite guidebook is Northern Mexico Handbook. What does that mean to you?

It's my favorite in the sense that it was the first guidebook I wrote that felt like it came out the way it was supposed to, in its first edition. By the time I wrote Northern Mexico Handbook. I'd had lots of practice writing guidebooks to other places in the world, so I had perfected my craft to at least some degree.

It's also my favorite book in the sense that I very much enjoy writing about places that other travel writers have tended to overlook. When I first started writing about Thailand back in the early 1980s, for example, I had the feeling of being something of a pioneer in documenting travel in that part of the world as the only other guidebooks to Thailand then were written in German or French. Now there are dozens of English-language guidebooks to Thailand and the country is frequently featured in mainstream travel mags like Conde Nast Traveler and Travel & Leisure.

Tourists and travel writers still neglect most of Northern Mexico in their rush to Mexico's coastal resorts and to "ethnic" states like Michoacán and Oaxaca.

You divide your time between Mexico and Asia. What are some Mexico-Asia connections that are missing to the "Gringo" eye?

Some connections, like the popularity of street food and outdoor markets, are rather obvious. Another aspect that seems obvious to me, yet which most Mexicophiles seem to miss completely, is the strong association between the Central and South-East Asian cultures - a thick strand running roughly from Tibet down through Indonesia - and Mexico's Amerindian cultural substrata. Anyone with a little training in anthropology can see the links. From physiognomy to weaving patterns to cultural values I see a very close connection -- no surprise considering the fact that the so-called "indigenous" tribes of the Americas originally migrated from Asia across the Bering land bridge.

We also shouldn't forget that the Iberian peninsula was ruled by Arabs for 700 years. The mestizo culture often strikes me as a hybrid of Arab and Asian cultures, moro and indio. Outside of Latin America, the only other region of the world where a majority of men wear moustaches is the Middle East. Even Mexican machismo could be viewed as an Arabian cultural legacy.

Have you ever visited a place in Asia and thought to yourself, "this seems like Mexico?"

The old section of Lijiang in China's northern Yunnan Province, on the eastern reaches of the Tibetan Plateau, looks a lot like Real de Catorce. Certain early Buddhist stupas resemble early Mesoamerican pyramids - not that there's any direct connection of course. There's a thick red chile sauce the Thais make in Chiang Mai that would go very well with totopos!

You also travel a good deal between Texas and Mexico. Every time I'm in a Texas border city and preparing to travel south, I find that even the Mexican-Americans barely know Mexico south of the border. What's your experience? Do Texans take full advantage of the proximity to parks and cities south of the border?

Some do. You'll find a lot of frequent Mexico travelers in the larger cities - Austin, Houston, San Antonio and Dallas -- plus small pockets in places like Terlingua and Alpine out in west Texas. Texans visit the so-called "Copper Canyon" a lot, and Monterrey for shopping. I'm happy to have come across a steady trickle of Texans in Saltillo, which is a treasure of a town not even a half day's drive from the Texas border. San Luis Potosi and the Region Huasteca are enjoying good word of mouth in Texas. Texans and other U.S. border state residents are gradually finding out how feasible it is to drive around Northern Mexico due to the improved quality of the highways since the 1970s and the overall lack of traffic relative to the rest of the country.

However you don't see many Texans in Sonora, which is a great driving state, or in Zacatecas, which in my opinion is the most striking of Mexico's grand colonial cities. Urban Texans like wine, and I'm surprised more of them don't know about Parras de la Fuente in Coahuila, the oldest wine-producing region in the Americas.

Texans, of course, love to travel in their own state - it's big enough that it could take half a lifetime of annual two-week vacations to see it all. Sure, I'd like to see them spending another half life exploring Northern Mexico - and taking along Northern Mexico Handbook while they did it. But to tell the truth I like the overall lack of tourism in the north and ultimately wouldn't want to see too many more tourists there.

How do you use the internet in your work?

I tap into all kinds of destination-related web pages, both public and private sector. I also find it useful for researching specific themes, whether it's Mexican archaeology or wine-making.

Of course I try to corroborate what I find on the Net with my own on-the-ground research, as Netspeak and reality often don't match up! Many people who create and maintain websites these days gather their information from other websites, rather than from the source, so one must be very careful.

What would you like to see on the Internet?

Mexican bus schedules!!

Will the internet change the role of guidebook writers and publishers?

It already has. Moon Publishing puts a lot on guidebook content on the Web, and other publishers are offering online updates of their books between updated print editions. Everyone's scrambling to be there first, but my strategy is to hang back in the middle of the crowd so as not to get led down any blind alleyways!


AUTHOR

Ron Mader is the responsible travel correspondent for Transitions Abroad and host of the award-winning Planeta.com website.



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