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WEAVING THE WEB

Scouting out Mexico's Landscape
A Conversation with John Noble
by Ron Mader

PLANETA FORUM

We first interviewed John in the mid 90s. This feature was updated in 2007.


PHOTO GALLERY: Conversations


Travel writer John Noble grew up in England's cool, green Ribble Valley. He studied English Literature and Philosophy at Cambridge University, then embarked on a career in British newspaper journalism which carried him from the Ribble Valley's Clitheroe Advertiser to Fleet Street's Observer, Guardian and Times.

The desire to explore the globe became increasingly hard to shake off and John left the newspaper world to spend five months following his nose from Canada to Guatemala via the United States and Mexico. Further lengthy overseas trips -- some part-funded by journalistic assignments -- followed before guidebook publisher Lonely Planet contracted him to update their Sri Lanka guide in 1986. While in Sri Lanka he met his wife, Australian Susan Forsyth.

Since then John has written and co-written more Lonely Planet guides than he can remember and has seen the company grow from a small, pre-email, backpacker-focused operation based in Melbourne, Australia, to an international brand also with offices in Oakland, California and London, England, around 500 travel titles sold worldwide and one of the most popular travel websites.


John' work has included eight editions of the company's successful Mexico guidebook (of which he has been coordinating author since 1994). Fascinated by Mexico ever since he read the barely credible story of Cortes and the Aztecs as a teenager, John regards his association with the country and regular visits there as a highlight of his career. He and Susan (who has co-authored several books with John) currently live in Spain, together with their two children Isabella and Jack, and make frequent hops across the Atlantic to Mexico.

Book

What is your professional background?

I've been a travel writer for over 20 years, predominantly writing guidebooks for Lonely Planet. Before that I worked in newspaper and magazine journalism in England, where I edited and wrote for national newspapers for several years. But I always had itchy feet and eventually took off with a backpack and a couple of freelance writing commissions.

Then I approached Lonely Planet about guidebook work and got my first assignment with them - updating their Sri Lanka guide - in 1986. Since then I've written or co-written dozens of Lonely Planet books covering over 20 countries in five continents. I still work mainly with Lonely Planet, but I also write on travel for other book, web and magazine publishers, and I do trip consulting. Anyone wanting trip-planning help is welcome to contact me.

How did you get involved in the process of writing the Lonely Planet guidebook to Mexico?

The company was putting together an all-new version of their Mexico guide in 1987 and asked me to be part of it. I had long been fascinated by the country and had already spent several months traveling in Mexico. There were only three of us to cover the whole country for that edition, and we all spent about a year on it. I've participated in every edition of the book since then, and have been coordinating author of the last six editions. This means I tie together the contributions of the other authors as well as writing large parts of the book myself. It's quite an undertaking now, as we often have 10 or more different authors each covering different parts of Mexico.

A bigger number of authors enables the book to be produced quicker and reach travelers' hands sooner. Lonely Planet has a great pool of Mexico-loving authors, some of whom live in the country while others travel there frequently.

I think the book has gone from strength to strength. It certainly remains highly popular with travelers and is consistently one of Lonely Planet' very best-selling books. One of our strengths is detailed on-the-ground research that keeps us right on top of the best things to see and do, the best places to stay and eat, the best entertainment and so on. We're also constantly searching out interesting new destinations:

Mexico is such a varied and changing country that there are new gems to be uncovered almost everywhere you turn. For example in our recently-published new edition, I've written a much expanded chapter on the state of Tabasco, which contains some fascinating pre-Hispanic ruins, dense jungles, good beaches and a huge wetlands biosphere reserve, the Pantanos de Centla. Most of this is well off the typical tourist trail but I hope I've encouraged more people to explore a great area.

We also respond to the kind of evolution that travelers expect in guidebook style. Recent editions have for example seen us develop a clearer listings format, punchier reviews, handier background information and colorful 'Local Voices' sections to give people an instant feel for the country.

I've heard your book described as a book for backpackers, but is this accurate? What kind of reader do you try to please in this book?

Lonely Planet started out in the1970s producing guides for backpackers but for a long time now has been reaching a much wider audience. We still provide plenty of information for budget travelers but today roughly 60% of the listings in country guides are for travelers on medium budgets - which in Mexico means people who can spend somewhere between about US$60 and US$120 a day.

What place did you enjoy most during your last visit to Mexico?

The biggest highlight for me was exploring Tabasco, because so much of it was new to me. I also loved revisiting the Maya sites in Chiapas - Palenque, Tonina, Bonampak, Yaxchilan - and staying for the first time at Las Guacamayas ecolodge set right on the Lacantun River in the Chiapas jungles.

What other countries do you write about?

In the last few years Guatemala, Belize, Brazil, Spain, Russia, Georgia and Kazakhstan.

From the perspective of a travel writer, how does Mexico differ from those countries?

Every country is unique and fascinating in its own way, of course. There's nowhere in the world that I find dull. I'll never tire of traveling in Mexico and writing about it because it's so dynamic and ever-changing and there's never any shortage of new places to discover. In many ways it's a writer's dream because it has such a fantastic variety of attractions - gorgeous cities, spectacular scenery, charming people, fabulous beaches, great music, art and handicrafts, ethnic variety, marvelous food, fascinating history, archaeology and traditions and an ever-evolving political and social scene.(I'm not trying to sound like a tourism ad, by the way.)

For a guidebook writer, who needs masses of detailed facts and figures and accurate first-hand information, Mexico is neither too easy nor too hard to research. Tourism is quite a highly developed industry and the country has plenty of tourist information offices, which are increasingly professional and tuned in to the information that travelers (and travel writers) need. The Internet is fairly well developed in tourism too. So there are some good coordinated information sources that one can use as a starting point for further research.

A country like Kazakhstan (where I was late last year), by contrast, has almost no recognition of the concept of independent travel and very few reliable published sources of information. As part of the former Soviet Union, it's still a country where the authorities are suspicious about public access to information of any kind. For example, the only way to find out the cost of a train trip you might want to take is to go and line up at the station information window - or telephone it if you can get through and can speak Russian - and specify the exact train you're thinking of traveling on and the class of seat you want. A pretty laborious method of research! Still fun, in a way, though - a different kind of challenge. You depend much more on personal contact and tips and leads from real people, which can be refreshing.

On the other hand in a country like Spain where tourism marketing is highly sophisticated you can almost drown under the weight of published information before you even leave home. Just sifting through what comes to you automatically can be very time-consuming.

How have you used the internet in researching your book?

I generally use tourism and business websites as tools to start finding out about a place, then go and check things out myself on the ground. Websites of course can make places look and sound better than they really are, and they're not always up-to-date, so it's essential to see things with your own eyes if you want to know what they're really like.

Some independent Mexico sites such as Mexican Wave, Mexico Connect, Mexico Online - and of course Planeta (!) - have a particularly good sense of what travelers actually want to know and the most interesting way to present it.

Bulletin boards - including Lonely Planet's own Thorn Tree - and some blogs such as the Daily Glyph are also good for some up-to-the-minute tips and news.

Internet access to news media and background cultural and environmental information is a huge help in researching background sections.

I've found that a lot of travel businesses and state tourism offices have email, but some rarely use it. Has this been your experience?

They're getting better at communicating by email. A few years ago one of our authors wrote to all hotel email addresses he had listed in his draft text, just asking for confirmation that he had the right addresses. Only 10% replied. Today I get a response from most Mexican businesses I email.

I find it helps if I ask a limited number of specific questions, making the reply a relatively quick and straightforward task. Email is a pretty good tool for checking details and specific facts, but less so for wider-ranging inquiries.

Do you work with the Lonely Planet website in updating its Mexico coverage?

Yes, when time permits I help with updates of the World Guide section, which gives introductory and summary information about countries and cities.

Lonelyplanet.com is growing rapidly at the moment with things like more feature articles, blogs, and an online accommodation service. As it happens I've done more of this kind of work on other countries than Mexico, but writing for the web is an ever growing part of any travel writer' life today and I expect to be doing more on Mexico before long.


AUTHOR

Ron Mader is the Latin America correspondent for Transitions Abroad and host of the award-winning Planeta.com website.



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