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ECO TRAVELS IN MEXICO

Cycling through the labrynths of bureaucracy in Mexico City: Bicitekas
by Tom Dieusaert

MEXICO WIKI
MEXICO FORUM

Publication date: 2000

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Mexico City -- The Mexican Ministry of Transportation is a funny place.

For the ocasional visitor, like a journalist invited to a press conference by the undersecretary of transport Aaron Dychter, it is a Escher-like labyrinth, with imposing separated buildings (A, B, C and D) each of them connected and covered with huge mosaics made by the finest muralist. It could have been a building in former eastern Europe, not in the least because of the bureaucratic logic that rules it.


Map

There are two policemen at the entrance, lifting up the barrier for the incoming cars of the oficials. Pedestrians on the other had, are ushered through a booth with an X-ray cabin and two female security guards, that ask for an identification.


They looked surprised when they saw me coming in with a bicycle in my hand but let me pass through the narrow booth, after I had identified myself as a journalist. I chained the bicycle to a flagpost, went to the press conference and came back one hour later.

"Who are you sir?" a man in a suit with a walkie-talkie asked me, as I was walking towards the exit with the bike in my hand. "Can I see your identification please ?" I told him I had left my ID at the entrance. "We've had complaints about you sir. You were hindering other visitors with your bike."

No problem I told him, if he would be so kind to lift the barrier I could ride out the runway. But the two policemen immedeately took position in front of the barrier, determined not to let me get passed while the man in the suit continued: "You should have left your bicycle outside, sir. This is not a place to circulate with a bicycle. You could run somebody over." Why then was there no confined bikepark inside the fence, I tried to argue ... and weren't circulating cars not more of a threat to visitors?

"Everybody gets here either by car or by bus. And this is a parking lot for cars. Not for bikes," he closed the matter.

After we resolved the dilemma through which door the illegal bicycle was going to leave the building, the man in the suit resolved the problem by escorting the bicycle across the barrier while I walked out of the booth, comletely dazzled, into the busy Lazaro Cardenas avenue.


Signs of the times

In the country which is home to "magical realism" - a literary current invented by Juan Rulfo but made popular by Colombian Gabriel Garcia Marquez - riding a bike is a perfect introduction to a reality that seems to lack every logic.

On the highways can be seen traffic signs declaring "cycling forbidden" on the soft shoulder. There is yet to be seen the first traffic sign that indicates where cyclists are supposed to ride their vehicles. To put it more plain, there are simply no bicycle lanes in the Federal District.

The law is very mysterious about the matter. It admits their existence, but at the same time it fails to give it its place among other vehicles. In the traffic code - reformed by Mayor Cuauhtemoc Cardenas in 1997, after he took office - the word bicycle appears in article 73. It states:

"In the city's streets, where the transport ministry will establish exclusive lanes for bicycles, drivers of motor vehicles should give preferece to bicycles."

For those trained in bureaucratic cabal, this article is saying that maybe someday the city might install bike lanes. But more likely than not, it will be a cold day in Acapulco when it actually happens. In the meantime, bikers will have to sort it out.


Bicitekas' proposal to create bike lanes

With a lack of government interest, a civil organizations called Bicitekas (sporting a logo with an ancient Aztec on a bike) is trying to make room for bicycles.

Bicitekas informs the public - via a website and a free magazine - about the use of a bicycle as an alternative form of transportation. Bicitekas is knocking on the government's doors with petitions, to create space for bicycles as an ecological alternative for a smog-suffocated city.

After a 1998 proposal to create bike lanes in the centrical Roma-Condesa area Bicitekas were not discouraged by the lukewarm reception of the local district mayor (delegado) and proposed on November 25 a more ambitious plan to the city's environmental chief Alejandro Encinas.

The project consists in transforming the obsolete train tracks to southern Cuernavaca, into a 'ecological corridor' or a cycling lane that could also be used for skaters and wayfarers. The bike lane that crosses the city could not only be used over the weekend, but could be the start for a biking culture in the city. The train tracks belong to the city government, who is urgently looking for a new destination since illegal settlers are invading the tracks. Unless Encinas decides to create an extra lane for the city's beltway (Periferico), that runs alongside the tracks, the first bike lane may soon become reality.

Cycling in DF

Today, biking in Mexico City seems not the most obvious thing to do though. On the contrary, for the occasional visitor in Mexico City, the idea of riding on a bike in the world's biggest and most polluted city must equal the experience as as jumping from a cliff on a bunji cord. (Editor's note -- read Greg Green's article Bicycling in Mexico City) Maybe it could be an item on adventurous programs, like MTV-extreme sports where people jump planes with a surfboard and parachute. Lots of adrenalin but only for seriously deranged minds.

For many newcomers in this city, who observe the sheer madness of traffic here, cycling must equalled to suicide. Crossing a street on foot - even with a green light - is an adventure, since drivers are likely to run you over when they take a turn and you don't jump out of the way. These motorists are still gentlemen compared to the taxidrivers and busdrivers, that distracted by the funky cumbia music on their stereo and entangled in vivid conversations with the money collectors sway their buses through traffic like small fishing boats in a storm, threatening to crush every lone pedestrian or cyclist on its way.

Yes, there are cyclists in Mexico City, although they seem to pass unnoticed, carrying around groceries, meat, or stacks of newspapers on the back of their Benotto tourism bikes (that look like a bike from the '50s ) These repartidores (distributors) belong to peculiar subculture. Dark tanned faces, determined looks on their faces, they duck their heads to break the wind and speed through traffic with long hauls of their pedals, apparently unnerved by the chaos that surrounds them. These are working class men, often second generation chilangos (Mexico City dwellers) and still tainted by the bicycle culture of their hometown.

It's a paradox, but once you get out of the city and go to the surrounding states, bicycles are the most common form of transportation in small towns, that are called pueblos bicicleteros or bicycle towns, chilango-slang for a backward town. Typical is the state of Morelos, south of Mexico city, where revolutionary hero Emiliano Zapata was born. Bicitekas refer to Zapata in the popular slogan Si Zapata viviera, con nosotros anduviera (If Zapata would still live, he'd be with us) that was jokingly converted into Si Zapata viviera, en bici anduviera (If Zapata would live, he would be a biker).

Giving the current economical conditions in Morelos, that's probably not far from the truth. Most immigrants that come to Mexico City though, lose their biking habits as soon as they get swallowed by the bureaucratic monster, that demands to put on a suit and tie and to use a proper form of transport, as the bus or the subway. There is an unspoken code in Mexico about transportation, the higher your are up on the social ladder, the bigger car you're supposed to have.

While middle-class Mexicans might be able to afford a classic Volkswagen Beetle, business men drive around in heavy suburbans or sport utility vehicles. These cars do no only guarantee a safe passage through the asphalt jungle, they also inspire respect as a genuine status symbol for the powerful. But status or not, huge traffic jams make fancy cars pretty useless in the Mexico City traffic.

The overburdened public transportation system is barely an alternative when it comes to move around quickly in the city. Mexico's subway, although a marvellous example of fast, clean and cheap public transportation, is often packed, especially at peak hours when the coaches are so crammed that you'll miss your stop if you don't start wrestling your way to the exit doors on time. Above ground, taking one of the green buses is not without danger either.

The last time I took a bus, the teenage driver was running through red lights and going into one way streets, trying to beat a colleague in a street race. The same day in November, a bus tipped over a few blocks away from my house, killing three. A final option for transportation, the ubiquitous cheap green beetle taxis, has been discredited lately, after pirate drivers have assaulted customers and scared the public away. Looking at it more closer, biking in Mexico has its advantages.

Surprisingly enough, accidents involving bicycles are very rare. Many times, traffic is so slow, that cars are taken over by bikes instead of the other way round. Due to the persistent chaos on the road, Mexican drivers hava also developed excellent driving skills and a special talent for avoiding collisions. While main arteries and thoroughfares are not recommended for biking, considering the smog alone, there are many shortcuts through amazing neighborhoods and quiet residential areas, one would never discover otherwise.

Bicitekas organizes Sunday morning trips in the colonial center or the art-deco neighborhood of La Condesa to rediscover architectural jewels. Green areas, like the city's main park (Chapultepec) are hubs for biking trips to whatever direction, with big paved lanes that are lined with street vendors and romantic couples. Finally the temperate climate of Mexico City - sunny, dry weather - and the flat topography are other advantages that should not be underestimated. And last but not least, a biker is never stopped by the bribe-happy Mexico City cops. "They would never bother you because they presume you're poor, that you don't carry any money to pay them off," a friend of mine said and he was right.

Reversing a vicious cycle

The biggest problem for bikers are not on the road, but authorities. Finding a good place to park and lock the bike, is always a challenge, and not only in the Transport Ministry. For instance in the United Nations building in the posh Polanco neighborhood, there is no bikepark but surveillance by private security guards, that strictly prohibit to leave any bicycle near the building.

Altough the U.N. might consider the inclusion of the right to choose one's own transportation in its charter, the official denial of two-wheelers in Mexico is understandable and caused by a vicious circle: The government does not promote cycling lanes since there does not seem to be an overwhelming demand. On the other hand, too few cyclists venture on Mexico City-streets because of the lack of protective lanes.

That is were an organization like Bicitekas fits in. And the creation of an ecological corridor, where a huge outdoor facility would be created at its worst, and at its best a new ecological alternative of transportation.


AUTHOR

This article was first published in 2000. Tom Dieusaert is a Belgian journalist.



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