What makes a gourmet coffee?
by Lisa Maldonado

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With so many types of coffee on the market today, buying coffee can be a confusing experience for the average consumer.

In fact, the average consumer will likely have heard that Colombian coffee is supposed to be good, and the image of Juan Valdez is familiar in the market. But relatively few consumers begin to plumb the depths of coffee lore, full of fascinating facts.

Did you know, for instance, that coffee's properties are said to have been discovered by a goatherd in the region where coffee originated, the Middle East? That Guatemala produces 5 percent of the world's coffee, of which nearly half -- 42 percent -- is gourmet quality?

Since beginning to export the coffee from my husband's family's organic gourmet shade coffee plantation, located one kilometer south of the shores of Lake Atitlan in San Lucas Toliman, Guatemala, we have had ample opportunity to immerse ourselves in coffee lore. Already versed in the planting, growing, harvesting and processing of gourmet organic coffee, we have also become experts on the roasting, packaging, exporting and marketing of gourmet organic coffee.

Happenstance has it that the coffee we grow fits into the niche that defines the finest coffee in the world. Not a little of the responsibility for this happy circumstance lies in the location of the farm, Finca Santa Alicia. It is located within the boundaries which define it as a Guatemala Atitlan coffee, and at an altitude that defines it as a strictly hard bean.

ANACAFE, Guatemala's association of coffee producers and exporters, recognizes several coffee-producing regions. The coffee from different regions is known to present particular flavor characteristics. Atitlan coffee is said to have a bright acidity which brings zest and sparkle to blends. Unblended, it's frankly delicious; few coffees can boast such a rich, delicious flavor coupled with a full body which gives a sumptuous mouthfeel, and a variegated aroma with hints of so many notes.

Yes, Guatemala has been blessed with the high altitude, moderate climate, abundant rainfall and volcanic soils that produce some of the world's finest gourmet coffees.

Many other factors affect the quality of coffee. In fact, it can seem too often like it's too much for the average consumer to keep track of! However, we can all learn a few important coffee facts to make a more tasteful and tasty choice when we buy coffee.

Here are some important factors which affect coffee's quality:

1) The type of coffee planted - There are only two species of coffee, Arabica and Robusta. Arabica is the only gourmet coffee, of which older varieties such as Bourbon have been proven by time to posess the best flavor characteristics. Newer varieties tend to be bred for production or resistance to pests and disease, not necessarily for flavor. In the past, Bourbon Arabica was the most common coffee variety in Guatemala. Also known as Tipica Arabica, the Bourbon coffee bush, besides producing a coffee which is superior in flavor, has a longer productive life--from 15-20 years, versus 7-9 years for newer hybrid varieties. However, many modern farmers have turned away from the gourmet Bourbon bush to plant newer varieties which produce more over a shorter period of time, and often without shade trees (a disaster for the environment and usually also for the coffee's flavor in the cup).

2) The altitude and region where the coffee was grown - The higher-grown the coffee, the better. This is due to the fact that Arabica coffee, the only species which encompasses gourmet coffees, will only grow at a higher altitude. Coffee is classified by it's relative density--the denser the finer. The higher-grown it is, the denser it is. Therefore, the higher-grown, the finer! The relative density is denoted by a system of names which groups coffee as follows, and whose categories are delimited by the altitude at which the coffee grows: Fantasy, Strictly Hard Bean, Hard Bean, Semi-Hard Bean, etc.

Different regions impart different flavor characteristics, due to factors as diverse as rainfall, climate, and type of soil. Guatemala is blessed with so many microclimates that it has many recognized flavor regions--the best-known and those recognized by ANACAFE, Guatemala's association of producers and exporters, being Antigua, Atitlan, Fraijanes, Coban, Huehuetenango and now, Nuevo Oriente.

3) The blend - Usually, in the interest of greater profit, fine Arabicas are blended with lesser coffees. Some of these blends have more Robusta than Arabica, resulting in a rotgut brew that upsets the stomach. Robusta is a vigorous plant that produces well close to sea level but won't grow at the higher altitudes. The coffee it produces is generally low in flavor acids and high in caffeine--Robusta naturally contains more caffeine than Arabica coffee. So, if you like quality coffee, avoid any blend with Robusta.

The exception to this rule is Espresso roasted blends, which often contain a percentage of Robusta because it gives a sought-after "cream" to the Espresso brew-- the frothy white foam on the surface of the cup. However, as a general rule, you should look for an unblended, high-grown, gourmet Arabica coffee. Most people can't believe how delicious coffee like this is when they finally taste it!

4) The growth process - As with other comestibles, coffee grown organically packs much more flavor than that grown with chemicals. Organic means better taste! And, growth under shade trees slows maturation, allowing for the bean to develop more natural sugar, less caffeine, and better flavor. Let's not forget the superiority of organic shade coffee when it comes to environmental concerns, as well.

If you care for birds, butterflies and other wild creatures, make a point of buying organic shade coffee. An organic shade coffee plantation mimics natural forest conditions and provides habitat for many creatures, especially migratory birds, which are found in greater concentrations in organic shade coffee plantations than in any other habitat except virgin forest, according to studies carried out by the Smithsonian Institute's Migratory Bird Center. It is most important for consumers to support coffee grown organically, under a full canopy of native shade trees, to preserve this fast disappearing bird and animal habitat.

5) The roast - Coffee can be roasted to almost any degree, from a very light roast to a very dark one. The same coffee can change color from cinnamon through chestnut, chocolate, and on from mocha to ebony, as it is roasted darker and darker. And, the same coffee will have a changing range of flavor characteristics come to the fore in the palate, as the roast brings out different flavor highlights.

Traditionally, European taste favors darker roasts, and American taste prefers lighter roasts. Darker roasts are a better value for your money, since coffee becomes increasingly voluminous as more moisture is driven off with darker roasting. And, the darker the roast, the less caffeine it contains, as caffeine is destroyed at high heat. However, in spite of these last two points in favor of dark roasts, give me a nice medium roast every time: medium roasting allows for the development of a multitude of flavor notes, whereas I find that a dark roast's flavor is less lively and interesting though it's more intense and lasting.

6) Freshness - As soon as coffee is roasted, its volatile oils become vulnerable to oxidizing. Coffee packed in oxygen-proof bags is your best assurance of fresh-roasted quality when you can't roast your own! Also, if you crave that fresh-roasted flavor, try to buy whole bean coffee and grind it just before making your coffee. This one step will improve your coffee's flavor immeasurably. And, as long as the coffee is kept away from direct heat sources, it's not necessary to keep it in the fridge or freezer. Oxygen is much more damaging to the quality of roasted coffee than heat.

Well, I could go on to say volumes about how to better enjoy fine coffee! But your best move if you love coffee is to sample Guatemala's many different varieties of delicious high-grown gourmet Arabica coffee.

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