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Community Tourism in Peru: The Island of Taquile, Lake Titicaca
by Ross Mitchell
PERU
-- Early one morning listening to the rain pattering on the
roof of my guesthouse, I felt a sense of belonging.
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Over several weeks,
I had learned a few Quechua expressions, wore a chuspa
(traditional coca leaf bag) and had even adjusted to the thin
altiplano air and a largely vegetarian diet. During 1997, I
collected research data on breathtaking Taquile Island in the
southeastern corner of Peru.
My main goal was to examine socio-economic aspects of a community
distinguished by high levels of participation and management
of the local tourism sector.
At 12,507 feet (3,812 meters), Taquile is an emerald gem nestled
on Lake Titicaca and surrounded by shifting shades of blue.
It is a fascinating place where the community still comes before
anything else and its collective organization seems to function
in perfect harmony. It wasn't long before the shy Taquileìos
became accustomed to my presence and questions with characteristic
sincerity. This is astonishing considering that only 20 years
before outsiders were so rare that residents hid at the sight
of strange faces.
Living on Taquile's 452 acres are 1,850 primarily Quechua-speaking
people, who for countless generations have grown potatoes, barley
and broad beans on terraced slopes. During the1960s, the poorest
Taquileìos eked out a living by fishing from reed boats on the
deep waters of the lake, and many had to migrate to other parts
of Peru to find temporary work.
The only way to reach the island was by wooden sailboat on
a 12-hour journey from the departmental capital of Puno, about
15 miles away. But in 1976 when the South American Handbook
described an out-of-the-way, unspoiled island (Taquile) on Lake
Titicaca, life would never be the same again for the islanders.
Latin American countries such as Costa
Rica, Belize,
Ecuador and
Peru have been
promoting "sustainable" tourism since the mid-1980s to generate
revenue and employment while striving to reduce or avoid negative
impacts. Peru has enormous opportunities in many "new" forms
of tourism that include nature watching, archaeology, trekking
and mountain climbing. Peru also possesses some of the most
exciting heritage resources in the world, such as Machu Picchu,
the Nazca Lines and the Tomb of Sipan.
Unique sites located relatively close to the "Gringo Trail"
such as Taquile Island generate high demand from adventure-nature
enthusiasts. From only a handful of tourists in the early 1970s,
over 27,000 visitors came to Taquile in 1996 and at least 15%
of them spent a night or two in a family guesthouse. Yet this
is not entirely good news. Today, the islanders are struggling
to maintain their simple lifestyle and customs in the face of
rapid globalization and modernity.
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HISTORICAL SNAPSHOT
In the early 1970s, tourism was not widely accepted as it is today.
But with the arrival of more and more strangers, initial reluctance
changed to outright support when economic benefits from handicraft
sales and lodging provision became apparent. Many people feel
that several important figures, including ex-governor and expert
weaver Francisco Huatta Huatta, Belgian priest Pepe Loits and
U.S. Peace Corps worker Kevin Healy, gently persuaded the islanders
of tourism's economic advantages. It was made clear that equitable
participation in the provision of services could be had without
drastically changing traditional ways.
Tourism on Taquile largely occurs during the May to November
dry season. The trip from Puno now takes about three to four
hours in small motorized boats, and those arriving on Taquile's
west side are faced with a daunting climb of several hundred
steps. Children run behind tourists and offer muìa, an aromatic
plant that may help alleviate shortness of breath. At the top,
a reception committee greets and arranges accommodation, if
desired, with a family in an adobe hut.
For the unprepared visitor planning to spend a night or two,
rather rustic conditions may come as a surprise. Nights are
often very cold and restaurant fare is generally limited to
locally produced potatoes and trout, as well as pancakes and
imported rice.
Many tourists are attracted to Taquile for its elaborate and
sophisticated textiles. During the 1980s, local weavers formed
two community-run artisan stores, the Manco Capac Cooperative,
to sell their diverse and increasingly numerous products. Most
men, women and children over the age of seven now earn money
by producing handicrafts. Prices are fixed to avoid harmful
competition with a small percentage retained for cooperative
maintenance. With the exception of a few vests, chullus (traditional
knitted male headgear) and belts which can be bought in Puno
or in some shops in Lima, Taquileìo textiles can only be purchased
on the island.
In many ways, the Taquileìos significantly control the type,
intensity and direction of tourism on their island. Tourism
has created a small economy, and the traditional dependence
on subsistence agriculture and the need to obtain employment
elsewhere has shifted.
In 1996 most adult residents (98%) were employed on a casual
or part-time basis in a tourism-related activity. Restaurants
are locally owned and operated by groups of families. Almost
everyone receives some remuneration from occasional handicraft
sales or provision of lodging. Revenues earned go to purchase
housing materials or foodstuffs such as dried noodles and cooking
oil. Cooperative boat ownership also subsidizes the cost of
transport for Taquileìos who travel to and from Puno.
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FUTURE CHALLENGES
Still, there are some dark clouds on the horizon. The dependence
on tourism as a major source of income has widened the gap between
families. Tourism preferences have changed and most now stay close
to the main plaza where restaurants and other services are located.
It appears that the distribution of shared benefits has shifted
to an increasingly individualistic, free market approach.
One frequent visitor told me that "with more solidarity, spirituality
and sense of community, there used to be more concern for each
other". Synthetic materials are gradually replacing sheep and
alpaca wool in their crafts, and simpler patterns and techniques
mean quicker sales. Litter has increased as tourists purchase
pop and other non-local food items. One change of concern to
tourists and even certain local residents has been the replacement
of traditional straw thatching with corrugated tin roofs.
Yet there is cautious optimism among the islanders and a widespread
acceptance that tourism is good for the local economy, as well
as allowing them to maintain their livelihood. Taquile is one
of those few magical places that can still be experienced by
those who desire a glimpse of a traditional Andean community.
But as increasingly greater numbers of visitors arrive, this
fragile island ecosystem and its unique culture are correspondingly
threatened. Local residents may want more tourism but not at
the expense of their traditional customs and environment, so
much an integral part of their identity. It should really be
up to the Taquileìos to decide for themselves what type and
degree of change is acceptable.
I have been fortunate to sit amidst the indigenous sites on
the island on a clear night as a full moon shimmered over Lake
Titicaca, surrounded by the snow-capped Andes. I have also witnessed
their wonderful traditional songs and dances during festivals
that pay tribute to pacha mama, the Mother Earth. Such opportunities
should not be taken for granted since only one Taquile Island
exists in this world. We should encourage efforts taken to preserve
this marvelous place.
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AUTHOR
Ross Mitchell is an Environmental Sociologist with the Alberta
Research Council. He holds a Ph.D. in Rural Sociology and
a B.Sc. in Forestry from the University
of Alberta , Canada, and a M.Sc. in Rural Planning and Development
(University of Guelph). He may be reached by email. |
REFERENCES
For more information on Taquile Island and community-based
tourism, please refer to the following publications:
Mitchell, Ross E. and Paul F.J. Eagles (2001). An Integrative
Approach to Tourism: Lessons from the Andes of Peru. Journal
of Sustainable Tourism, 9(1): 4-28.
Mitchell, Ross E. and Reid, Donald G. (2001). Community integration:
island tourism in Peru. Annals of Tourism Research, 28(1), 113-139.
Mitchell, Ross E. (2001). Community Perspectives in Sustainable
Tourism: Lessons from Peru, Pp. 137-162, in Tourism, Recreation,
and Sustainability: Linking Culture and the Environment, Stephen
F. McCool and R. Neil Moisey (eds.). CABI Publishing: Oxon,
UK.
Mitchell, Ross E. (1998). Community integration in ecotourism:
a comparative case study of two communities in Peru. MSc thesis,
University of Guelph, Guelph, Ontario.
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