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ECO TRAVELS IN THE YUCATAN

Biking in the Yucatan
by Theresa Russell

MEXICO WIKI
MEXICO FORUM

MEXICO -- Scattered throughout the Yucatan peninsula, the magnificent Maya ruins provide evidence of and insight into the lives of a people whose ancestors migrated across the Bering Strait thousands of years ago.

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Traveling by bicycle will take you at just the right pace to meet the people, enjoy the view and savor the experience of a culture that continues ancient traditions.


Departing the Cancun airport access road, a simple decision, a right or left turn means the difference between an insulated, familiar experience and one that will immerse you into the Yucatecan culture. On our first visit to this ideal cycling destination, we opted for the right turn, fully aware of our intentions for this tour.

Our experiences with the locals in the sleepy town of Puerto Morelos, our first stop, confirmed that we had made the best directional choice and assured us that our remaining month amongst the warm and friendly inhabitants of this peninsula would be a rewarding endeavor. Our off-the-beaten path route took us through villages rarely visited by gringos. At the sight of the lead rider, the villagers went on alert; pigs scattered, and dogs lazily raised eyebrows, unwilling to move from their spots in the middle of the road.

Even without the convenience of phones, somehow, it seemed, the entire village lined the road to take in this spectacle, unemotionally staring at this lycra-clad group of foreigners. "Hola!" we shouted, and immediately the curious stares melted into smiles and a reciprocated greeting.

VAYA CON DIOS

Everyday we passed through similar villages, usually stopping to regroup at the main square, a typical feature, often dominated by a church. Frequently, the locals approached us, wanting to practice their English or to look over our multi-speed bikes. Many rode along with us to the outskirts of town before bidding us, "Vaya con dios".

The Yucatan offers many advantages to the touring cyclist. First it is warm, but not too hot, during the Northern Hemisphere winter months. Its location makes the travel time comfortable and not overly expensive for visitors from the United States and Canada. The terrain is gentle, but the scenery is certainly not spectacular. The Maya ruins themselves, randomly distributed throughout the peninsula, make up for the lack of scenery and make good daily destinations.


LOCAL FEATURES

One of the best features of the Yucatan, is the fact that most residents ride bicycles, which are much more numerous on the roads than automobiles. When we did encounter cars, the drivers were courteous and comfortable with sharing the road with cyclists.


The Yucatecan cuisine consists of several dishes with chicken or turkey the main ingredient. While perhaps not as spicy as Mexican food, it still packs a punch that may be a bit overwhelming for the uninitiated. Pollo pibil, chicken cooked in banana leaves and covered with a wonderful sauce is a treat not to be missed. The Sopa de Lima, a tortilla soup with chicken, also warrants a taste.


CYCLING ITINERARY

Developing a cycling itinerary is a simple matter. Simply choose a map, (not so easy, as they all seem to have inaccuracies), choose the sites that interest you and get on your bike and go! If you don't have the time to do a loop, just toss your bike on a bus to get back to your starting point.

Accommodation can be found in most reasonably sized towns, but it is a good idea to carry camping equipment on certain routes. You won't find many official camping sites, but asking the locals, will usually get you pointed in the right direction.

So, whether you are interested in visiting popular sites like Tulum, Chichen Itza and Uxmal or the off-the-beaten path ruins like Edzna, Sayil or Ek Balam; you won't find a more ideal place to cycle tour.



AUTHOR

Theresa Russell led her third cycling tour in January 2000. Besides being a tour leader, she is also researching material for her next book. If you have any specific questions, please feel free to contact her via email


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