| ECUADOR
-- A family of majestic but thankfully dormant volcanoes watch
proprietarily over the landscape as we approach the communities
of Cotacachi, two hours' drive north of Quito
and only minutes from the market town of Otavalo.
A patchwork of farmfields spreads out at the foothills of
Mama Cotacachi, which, at 16,290 feet, sports an impressively
snowcapped summit. It is a lush region, with spectacular vistas
and spring-like temperatures year-round. The potato, and many
other less well-known crops, was first cultivated in such Andean
valleys and plateaus, and still exhibits a wonderful diversity
of forms, colors and shapes, hardly dreamt of by spud-eaters
from regions of the world where the crop was introduced following
the Spanish conquest.
I am here to visit with the partners of a local tourism initiative,
started over a year ago by the Union
of Peasant Organizations of Cotacachi (UNORCAC). Runa
Tupari, the community-based operator created by UNORCAC
for this purpose, has developed offerings that highlight local
culture and the natural environment. The menu includes visits
to the Quichua-speaking indigenous communities of the area,
overnight stays at rural lodges to experience the daily life
of farmers and artisans, and the chance to hike, mountain bike
and horseback ride around the many natural attractions. Rustic
lodges have been built adjacent to the house of each of the
twelve host families with a combination of grant funds and a
loan that must be paid over a year. There is room for three
to four people at each lodge which is equipped with a fireplace.
Bucolic scenes set against the spectacular backdrop of the volcanoes
greet the eyes from every window.
A rapid survey of nearby homegardens reveals a treasure trove
of little known crops and local varieties, which satisfy culinary,
medicinal and ceremonial needs. Beautifully colored oca and
melloco tubers, crispy jicama roots, local varieties of maize
and beans, quinoa grains, plus an array of fruits scarcely known
beyond the Andes such as tree tomatoes, the giant pod guaba
and cherimoya, among others.
We soon meet Rafael Guitarra, President of UNORCAC, who tells
us about their new partnership with the National Institute of
Agricultural Research (INIAP). The focus of the partnership
is to restore to the communities the indigenous crops and plant
varieties - the local agrobiodiversity - that have disappeared
from farmers' fields. Because the rich diversity which we have
just walked through is under threat, and much has already been
lost, we must take steps to avoid further loss of this unique
agricultural heritage. Fortunately, there is INIAP, where the
national collection of the crop diversity of Ecuador is conserved
and studied, including different types of tree tomatoes and
hot peppers. In its genebanks can often be found crop varieties
that for one reason or another farmers have lost -- and would
like to get back.
There is widespread interest in this initiative. Susana Bonilla,
widow, organic farmer and lodge owner, is keen to expand her
home garden and to recover varieties of potatoes she has lost
over the years. Alfonso Morales, farmer, municipal officer and
also a lodge owner, emphasizes the connection between reviving
cooking traditions and the persistence of his culture. The growing
interest among ecotourists in organic agriculture and in little
known foods and crops is not lost on either of them. The idea
is to give tourists the chance to learn from farmers about diverse
native crops and feature these often-unusual plants prominently
in the meals tourists share with their host families.
This initiative has trained a cadre of 25 young people from
the communities as native guides. Luis Tabi, 19, a very personable
native guide trained and licensed by the Ministry of Tourism
accompanies us on a grand tour of the lodges and points out
local features. The natural attractions are many. The chance
to walk around the rim of the spectacular Cuicocha Lake is not
to be missed. Cuicocha is a crater lake located within the Cotacachi-Cayapas
Ecological Reserve, one of the premier protected areas of Ecuador,
includes high altitude native vegetation (paramo), cloud forest
and coastal tropical forest. Unlike many other parts of the
Andes, the paramo of Cotacachi-Cayapas remains fairly undisturbed.
Over 20,000 plant species, including wild orchids, the wild
ancestors of cultivated crops, a multitude of Andean birds and
the mighty condor, make their home here.
Tourists sauntering into La Plaza de los Ponchos in Otavalo
run right into Runa Tupari's offices where they are greeted
by its General Manager, Rodrigo Flores. Rodrigo, with a college
degree in tourism has ably navigated uncharted waters in getting
the rural lodges certified by the Ministry of Tourism. Runa
Tupari's prime location also affords the artisans from the communities
a point to congregate before setting up for sale at the famous
Saturday crafts market. Although the cottage industry production
of crafts is generalized to almost every family in the region,
the Cotacachi communities of La Calera, and Tunibamba have specialized
in the traditional white sandals (alpargatas) with braided and
coiled plant fiber soles and wool and cotton textiles, respectively.
By restoring and supporting the maintenance of local agrobiodiversity,
this initiative will diversify the humdrum daily diet of these
poor communities and reinforce cultural traditions, while also
expanding the breadth of the ecoturist's experience. It promises
to be an attractive proposition for all concerned. This is certainly
an example of community-based tourism where the work is done
for and by community members, and where benefits are widely
shared by the communities.
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