EXPLORING ECUADOR

Community Tourism in the Northern Andes
by Marleni Ramirez

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ECUADOR -- A family of majestic but thankfully dormant volcanoes watch proprietarily over the landscape as we approach the communities of Cotacachi, two hours' drive north of Quito and only minutes from the market town of Otavalo.

A patchwork of farmfields spreads out at the foothills of "Mama" Cotacachi, which, at 16,290 feet, sports an impressively snowcapped summit. It is a lush region, with spectacular vistas and spring-like temperatures year-round. The potato, and many other less well-known crops, was first cultivated in such Andean valleys and plateaus, and still exhibits a wonderful diversity of forms, colors and shapes, hardly dreamt of by spud-eaters from regions of the world where the crop was introduced following the Spanish conquest.

I am here to visit with the partners of a local tourism initiative, started over a year ago by the Union of Peasant Organizations of Cotacachi (UNORCAC). Runa Tupari, the community-based operator created by UNORCAC for this purpose, has developed offerings that highlight local culture and the natural environment. The menu includes visits to the Quichua-speaking indigenous communities of the area, overnight stays at rural lodges to experience the daily life of farmers and artisans, and the chance to hike, mountain bike and horseback ride around the many natural attractions. Rustic lodges have been built adjacent to the house of each of the twelve host families with a combination of grant funds and a loan that must be paid over a year. There is room for three to four people at each lodge which is equipped with a fireplace. Bucolic scenes set against the spectacular backdrop of the volcanoes greet the eyes from every window.

A rapid survey of nearby homegardens reveals a treasure trove of little known crops and local varieties, which satisfy culinary, medicinal and ceremonial needs. Beautifully colored oca and melloco tubers, crispy jicama roots, local varieties of maize and beans, quinoa grains, plus an array of fruits scarcely known beyond the Andes such as tree tomatoes, the giant pod guaba and cherimoya, among others.

We soon meet Rafael Guitarra, President of UNORCAC, who tells us about their new partnership with the National Institute of Agricultural Research (INIAP). The focus of the partnership is to restore to the communities the indigenous crops and plant varieties - the local agrobiodiversity - that have disappeared from farmers' fields. Because the rich diversity which we have just walked through is under threat, and much has already been lost, we must take steps to avoid further loss of this unique agricultural heritage. Fortunately, there is INIAP, where the national collection of the crop diversity of Ecuador is conserved and studied, including different types of tree tomatoes and hot peppers. In its "genebanks" can often be found crop varieties that for one reason or another farmers have lost -- and would like to get back.

There is widespread interest in this initiative. Susana Bonilla, widow, organic farmer and lodge owner, is keen to expand her home garden and to recover varieties of potatoes she has lost over the years. Alfonso Morales, farmer, Municipal officer and also a lodge owner, emphasizes the connection between reviving cooking traditions and the persistence of his culture. The growing interest among ecotourists in organic agriculture and in little known foods and crops is not lost on either of them. The idea is to give tourists the chance to learn from farmers about diverse native crops and feature these often-unusual plants prominently in the meals tourists share with their host families.

This initiative has trained a cadre of 25 young people from the communities as native guides. Luis Tabi, 19, a very personable native guide trained and licensed by the Ministry of Tourism accompanies us on a grand tour of the lodges and points out local features. The natural attractions are many. The chance to walk around the rim of the spectacular Cuicocha Lake is not to be missed. Cuicocha is a crater lake located within the Cotacachi-Cayapas Ecological Reserve, one of the premier protected areas of Ecuador, includes high altitude native vegetation (paramo), cloud forest and coastal tropical forest. Unlike many other parts of the Andes, the paramo of Cotacachi-Cayapas remains fairly undisturbed. Over 20,000 plant species, including wild orchids, the wild ancestors of cultivated crops, a multitude of Andean birds and the mighty condor, make their home here.

Tourists sauntering into "La Plaza de los Ponchos" in Otavalo run right into Runa Tupari's offices where they are greeted by its General Manager, Rodrigo Flores. Rodrigo, with a college degree in tourism has ably navigated uncharted waters in getting the rural lodges certified by the Ministry of Tourism. Runa Tupari's prime location also affords the artisans from the communities a point to congregate before setting up for sale at the famous Saturday crafts market. Although the cottage industry production of crafts is generalized to almost every family in the region, the Cotacachi communities of La Calera, and Tunibamba have specialized in the traditional white sandals (alpargatas) with braided and coiled plant fiber soles and wool and cotton textiles, respectively.

By restoring and supporting the maintenance of local agrobiodiversity, this initiative will diversify the humdrum daily diet of these poor communities and reinforce cultural traditions, while also expanding the breadth of the ecoturist's experience. It promises to be an attractive proposition for all concerned. This is certainly an example of community-based tourism where the work is done for and by community members, and where benefits are widely shared by the communities.

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