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PLANETA FEATURE

A Perfect Fit: Ecotourism and Smallholder Coffee Communities in Oaxaca, Mexico
by Brent Valentine

PLANETA FORUM

OAXACA -- Every morning Ramiro Cortes Bustamante wakes up early, drinks his coffee and eats his breakfast before leaving for work.

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PHOTO GALLERY: Coffee


Like many people in the world Ramiro has a long commute to work. But unlike most, he doesn't get into a car. He loads up his burro and hikes an hour and a half towards his coffee plot in the Coastal Sierra Sur mountain range in the state of Oaxaca.

Ramiro's commute takes him down several camino reales, paths created for transportation between neighboring communities before roads were established. The paths Ramiro uses cross spring-fed streams, pass over cloud-shrouded mountains, and wind through thick forests filled with bird songs and clean air.

Communities like Ramiro's are world renowned for producing high quality coffee, while also preserving the natural environment. Fair trade, organic certified coffee is a labor intensive product that needs constant attention. Ask any coffee farmer and he or she will tell you each step of the process, from the flowering of the coffee plants in spring to the cleaning and drying of the beans post-harvest.

FORESTS

One of the main attractions of these Oaxacan coffee communities is the surrounding forest.

Fair-trade, organic certified coffee is grown under shade trees. This shade canopy, together with the right altitude (between 3,000 and 5,000 feet), provide ideal conditions for growing high quality Arabica coffee. By growing their coffee under shade, farmers have been able to better preserve their lands and natural springs, reduce runoff, and maintain forest habitats for birds and animals, while providing a marketable agricultural crop to help maintain their families.

MIGRATION

Unfortunately, small coffee growers throughout the world are finding it increasingly difficult to sustain their livelihoods. Two main threats to family-based coffee production in Mexico are unstable coffee prices and migration from coffee communities. Increasingly coffee farmers in Oaxaca are deciding to leave their fields for more stable, better paying jobs that cannot be found in these small hamlets.

Migration has created both positive and negative impacts in these communities. On the positive side, the increase in income for some migrant families is allowing them to improve their basic living standards, and in some cases is facilitating home construction and development of small businesses. Conversely, migration is breaking up families, leaving coffee land abandoned, and creating a labor shortage within the communities.

The drawbacks of emigration have put extra strain on the coffee farmers. Abandoned coffee plots are rife with insects (broca) which then invade active plots. Oaxacan coffee farmers must also pay rising daily wages due to the labor shortage in their communities.

In several regions the labor costs have risen drastically in the last five years, making it increasingly difficult to turn a profit in coffee. The last two years coffee farmers have seen better prices in the market, but even these prices are not enough to offset the labor costs when migration is present. If coffee is not worth the work for these farmers, then what is?

CREATING ALTERNATIVES

Creating alternative incomes in these remote communities is essential to their survival amidst the ups and downs of the coffee market. Community based eco-tourism is one avenue for generating this much-needed income, while educating visitors about the unique natural and cultural traits of rural Mexico. The biggest attraction these communities have retained through their organic coffee production is what most ecologically minded travelers cannot get enough of: natural beauty.

In addition to the natural beauty of these communities, residents are willing and eager to share with tourists how they live and work. Creating an opportunity for tourists to explore and better understand small-scale coffee production can help to link the very different worlds of coffee consumers and coffee producers, making the brew taste all the better.

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AUTHOR

Brent Valentine is a guide for Eastwind Cycle's 'Tour of the Coffee Lands', a 7-day exploration on bike of two Oaxacan coffee communities. Brent participated in a year-long university research project in Oaxaca dealing with the relationship between fair trade, organic coffee production and the effects of migration from coffee communities. Ramiro Cortes Bustamante worked as a local assistant in his community, where he is a coffee producer and local leader.

March 2007 is your chance to travel with Eastwind Cycle on a journey to experience first-hand the natural and cultural beauty of these coffee lands. More detailed information for the trip can be found at online or by sending an email.


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