The concept of ecotourism as such is unknown in Patagonia. However, due to lack of resources this area has not been developed in terms of infrastructure and tourist facilities and is thinly populated. A traveler can therefore still follow exciting tracks in the untouched National Parks of the southern parts of Argentina and Chile without meeting a soul. Colonies of sea lions and seal elephants can be seen cohabiting in the warm waters of Peninsula de Valdez without being disturbed by noisy tourists. Sounds too good to be true? If you are like me, a person who likes to experience nature in its "wildest" state, Patagonia is the place for you.
Patagonia is an enormous region which encompass the south of Argentina and Chile. In Argentina it lies south of Rio Colorado, bordered by the Atlantic Ocean, the Andes and Tierra del Fuego. All of Argentine Patagonia lies in the shadow of the Andes, which block most of the rains coming from the Pacific. Strong winds blow constantly in the Argentine Patagonian plains, making it very arid and inhospitable. Chilean Patagonia, in the other hand, is covered by dense forests and turbulent rivers.
The original population of Patagonia consisted of Indians from different tribes. They were nomadic and lacked a central government. At the end of the 19th century, Argentinians "conquered" the desert, and with the help of British landowners, massacred the Indian population offering one pound Sterling per dead Indian. Today, the population are employed in the oil, cattle and building industries. Many idealistic people came to Patagonia to start a new life away from the alienating big cities. Some Indian descendants live in marginalised reservations, out of sight and out of the government s mind.
From Buenos Aires or Santiago the visitor can get to Patagonia by air, train, bus or car. Once in Patagonia, it is not difficult to hitchhike. People in Patagonia are very friendly and helpful, and they usually stop and chat to backpackers, even when driving in the opposite direction. If hitchhiking, though, be aware that the area is very scarcely populated, and only a handful of cars will drive your way daily.
There are plenty of places where to stay over. Camping in Patagonia is an exciting experience, whether you camp in an organised campsite or in basically any place that takes your fancy. I have camped underneath bridges on rainy days, on the shore of some of the most beautiful lakes, in peoples backyards, and also slept for free in churches, sport and community centres, and even in a police station (not highly recommended!)
Since the number of independent travellers is so low, the local population is eager to meet visitors and get to hear about the world. Be aware though that very few people speak English. Even the most elementary knowledge of Spanish will dramatically improve your chances of communication.
The name Patagonia usually evokes images of endless empty vistas of land. In reality, however, the geography and landscapes are extremely varied, ranging from flat expanses of land (Patagonia was submerged under the ocean three times) to the mountains of the Andes.
There are too many fascinating places in Patagonia to be listed here. These are just a few of my favourite spots:
Perito Moreno, located in the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, is one of the few advancing glaciers in the world. Five kilometers long and 60 metres high it actually cuts Lago Argentino in two halves. The pressure of the ice provokes internal explosions which can be heard many kilometers away. Huge blocks of ice fall into the lake and many times they explode as well. Once every four years a huge part of the 5 kilometers wall explodes, an amazing sight. Two tips: don t try to swim in the lake, your heart will stand only for four minutes in the cold waters. Also, if you like fishing for trout, this is the place you were looking for.
Peninsula de Valdez is one of the best kept secrets on Earth. Sea lions, sea elephants, whales, dolphins, penguins and many birds, make it a precious reserve of wildlife. In summer, these animals migrate from Antarctica taking advantage of the warm currents of water and come to Peninsula de Valdez to breed. The only way for tourists to get there is by private car or organised tour. Hitchhiking is difficult.
The town of San Julian is located between Caleta Olivia and Rio Gallegos, the capital of the province of Santa Cruz. Nothing special about the place, besides the fact that at the San Julian municipal camp ground you can find an idealistic father and his son who own an adjacent small island where they try to preserve the environment for close to five thousand penguins who come every summer to breed. They will arrange boat trips to the island where you can spend the day fishing and walking among the penguins.
In the Chilean Patagonia there are two very special places: Parque Nacional Torres del Paine and the Carretera Austral.
Parque Nacional Torres del Paine is one of the most spectacular in South America. Vertical granite walls 2000 meters high soar above the Patagonia planes. You can follow trails around turquoise lakes, magnificent glaciers, luxuriant forests and abundant wildlife. Two middle priced hotels, refugios and a tent are good ways to enjoy this splendid park. You can come by taxi, bus or car from Puerto Natales (250 km north of Punta Arenas) but in the national park itself there is no access to four wheels. It takes about a week to complete the main circuit, but there are also shorter walks. Food supply in the park is very limited, so it is better to bring your own groceries.
The Carretera Austral (or Pinochet Highway) was opened 12 years ago between dense forests and inaccessible snow-clad mountains. There is a natural attraction every few kilometers: sprawling glaciers, roaring creeks and rivers and the most southern rainforest in the world. In the lakes and rivers there are plenty of fishing opportunities. The visit to thermal waters of Amarillo is especially enjoyable after days of backpacking. Camping is permitted all over the carretera.
From the Carretera Austral you can either continue north, to the island of Chiloe, or south to Tierra del Fuego, and even Antarctica. But this will have to wait for another article!
Contact the author at the Spanish Language Department, Griffith University Nathan, Qld 4111 Australia
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