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Central American Sea Kayaking Expedition
by Jean-Philippe Soul³

 

On October 1st 1998, we will embark on a 2.5 year o 6000 mile, low impact, completely self-sustained, traction kite-powered sea kayak expedition from Baja-California to the Darien Gap rainforest of Panama. Our intentions are to explore, learn from and document the lifestyles and homelands of the last remaining indigenous tribes in Central America. We both have experience as guides, photo-journalists, and teachers yet we go as students. On topics ranging from wilderness survival skills and medicinal plants to social and environmental issues, we look forward to sharing with you images, impressions and insights.

 

Trip Overview

Sea Kayak from California to Columbia:

  1. Mouth of the Colorado river to La Paz (Baja - Mexico).
  2. Rio Ucumacinta (Mexico).
  3. From the Yucatan Peninsula (Mexico) to Costa Rica along the Caribbean coast -- Belize, Guatemala, Honduras and Nicaragua (kayak up the jungle rivers of the mosquito coast of Honduras and Nicaragua).
  4. Rio San Juan (Border of Nicaragua and Costa Rica) from the Atlantic to Lake Nicaragua (near the Pacific ocean).
  5. Pacific coast from Costa Rica to Panama (explore the Darien jungles).
  6. Cross the Panama Canal to the Caribbean sea.
  7. Caribbean coast from Panama canal to the border of Colombia.

Goals & Objectives

The main goal of this expedition is to learn and write about the Aboriginal skills and medicinal plants used by the native peoples (Seri, Lacandon Mayans, Garifuna, Miskitos, Pech, Sumu, Rama, Guaymi, Choco, Kuna, etc.). The lifestyles and skills of indigenous peoples are one of the keys to the preservation of our earth's precious eco-systems. Minimizing our impact upon them, we will learn how to live from the land and the sea to become self-sufficient ourselves. We will document those skills, their lifestyles and the influence of development on their environments and lives. We will use a variety of media to send a strong message that will sensitize the people following our progress to humanitarian, and environmental and cultural preservation issues.

(For additional information, we invite you to read our document "Indigenous Peoples").

It is our intention to share our experiences by:

    ‡ Writing a book narrating the details of this voyage.
    ‡ Writing a book about Indigenous Skills used by native people.
    ‡ Writing articles for magazines.
    ‡ Producing a slide show.
    ‡ Maintaining an Internet Web site to show the progress of this expedition.
    ‡ Inviting TV programs and newspapers to feature our expedition.

Why a sea kayak expedition?

Because it offers one of the best low impact ways to penetrate untouched jungles via their waterways and approach nature and its inhabitants without disturbing them. It will facilitate our interaction with indigenous people. We won't come as high-tech tourists, but like them, as people living from the land and sea.
Sea kayaking yes, but not only paddling! Sea kayaking using a kite for traction.
To cover long distances, we will use a kite designed specifically for water. It will be the first time that such an expedition in Central America will use a kite as a traction device. By using this system, we hope to promote interest in using and developing more transportation modes that are non destructive to the environment. (Some natives have recently started to use motorboats. In addition to being detrimental to their environment, the original cost of purchase and the continual costs of maintenance and operations are creating financial pressures non existent in the past. Using a kite could offer a good, cheap and environmentally safe alternative.

Features & places of interest

Mexico

Baja: Next to the island of Tiburon live the last remaining Seri Indians. The Seris have legendary survival skills with an. extensive knowledge of the sea and desert which we will study and use to subsist with a minimum of supplies from villages along the 2000 mile paddle south on the Sea of Cortez.
Baja also supports an array of marine life such as killer whales and whale sharks, and is the only place in the world (El Bajo) where thousands of hammerhead sharks congregate on winter nights.
Rio Ucumacinta: The Lacandon Mayans, who call themselves Hawch Winik, "The True Men". They are the oldest inhabitants of the rain forest and until the 40s, had been living there with almost no contact with "The Invisibles" (the rest of humanity).
Yukatan Peninsula: Rio Lagartos Nature Reserve has one of the largest colonies of wild Pink Flamingos. Sian Ka'an Biosphere Reserve is a World Heritage Site.

Belize

The Garifuna people have kept their traditions and still live from the sea.
In Belize (United Nations proposed World Heritage Site for its coral reef), we will meet the Garifuna and learn their fishing techniques. We will be sea nomads, continuously moving along the reef.

Honduras

La Moskitia: La Moskitia (or the Mosquito Coast in English) is one of the most unknown and unexplored jungles of Latin America.
This jungle is home to the Pech, Miskito and Sumu Indians. The indigenous Garifuna live on its coast.
This rainforest is also home to amazing wildlife including the endangered Tapir and Jaguar (the rare black Jaguar can also be seen in and around the Rio Platano Biosphere). The Rio Platano Biosphere has been named a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. The possibilities for kayaking up rivers and into lagoons are unlimited. I'm regularly advised by my friend Derek A. Parent, an esteemed authority on la Moskitia in Honduras.

Kayaking the full length of the Caribbean coast of Honduras from Guatemala to Nicaragua has never been done, and the frequent rough seas during the rainy season will be a daunting obstacle.
The Honduran part of this trip by itself (ocean and jungle rivers) should be a very challenging and fulfilling adventure (going up rivers into deep jungles to share the lifestyle of Miskitos, Pech and Sumu indians). It promises to be one of the highlights of the entire expedition.

Nicaragua

La Moskitia: This section of the coast will, in addition to previously mentioned perils, be quite dangerous due to the political situation. As it is uncharted territory for tourists and outsiders, there is no information or back-up infrastructure available. This first North-South kayak crossing of the full length of Nicaragua will be the ultimate in terms of challenge and discovery. With long stretches of wilderness (~500 km between the Honduran border and the city of Bluefields), we will have to be completely self-sufficient to cover the long distances separating villages. We will have to limit travel to daylight and discretely set up camps out of sight. In spite of the potential danger of this area, the undisturbed nature and fascinating people will make the trip worthwhile.

Rio San Juan & Lake Nicaragua: The San Juan river flows 200 km through virtually uninhabited jungles from Lake Nicaragua on the west coast all the way to the Caribbean. Paddling this river from the Atlantic coast to the lake will offer spectacular jungle scenery. Lake Nicaragua (largest lake in Central America) is home to one of the only known species of fresh water shark.

Costa Rica

World renowned as a birdwatching paradise and home to some of the largest sea turtle hatching grounds, this country offers amazing national parks and wilderness preserves. In spite of its fame, difficult access has allowed for the continued existence of many pristine places. We plan to explore the following wilderness parks and reserves: Barra del Colorado, Tortuguero, Cano Negro, Las Baulas de Guanacaste, Ostional, Corcovado. We also plan to go up the following rivers: Rio Frio, Rio Liberia, Rio Tenorio and Laguna Corcovado.

We will leave our kayaks for a few weeks to meet the most insular tribe in Costa Rica, the Cabecar Indians, who live in the protected and secluded Talamanca-Cabecar Reserve.

Panama

The Darien Gap: This impenetrable strip of land linking Central and South America is dense rain forest and home to the native Choco and Kuna indians (and hideout for drug traffickers and Colombian guerrillas). The jungles of Darien are still largely unexplored.

Our focus in Panama will be on kayaking the main rivers of Darien and some of their tributaries (Chucunaque, Sambu, Tuira, and Balsas). On the shores of those rivers lie many Choco Indian villages. The Choco indians are comprised of the culturally distinct Embera and Wounaan. They are on intimate terms with the jungle in which they hunt with blowguns and poison darts. We will spend a few months with the Choco Indians in one of Central America's last untouched wildernesses. Documenting the importance of this specific eco-system will help in bringing a deeper understanding of the future impact of the planned Pan American Highway. We are being supported by RaÏl Arias de Para, one of the highest esteemed authority in his country.

We are grateful for continous support from RaÏl Arias de Para, a former Panama National Assembly member, and a highly esteemed authority on human rights, indigenous peoples and environmental issues.