The Serra do Mar is a 1500 km. scarp running parallel to the Atlantic coast in Southeastern Eco Travels in Brazil, separating the coastal strip, the littoral, from the planalto beyond, the traditional home of Brazil's coffee plantations. The mountains attain a height of 2787m, in the case of Pico de Agulhas Negras, in Itaitaia National Park, one of Brazil's highest summits. The mountain system includes a number of ranges with individual names, such as Serra da Bocaina, Serra da Mantiqueira, Serra Negra, Serra Quilombo, Serra de Paranapiacaba, Serra dos Orgaos, etc., and is not confined to the main land; the islands of the south-east coast such as Ilha Bela and Ilha Grande are part of the same range. The ecosystem supported throughout the region is known as Mata Atlantica, or Atlantic Rainforest, which originally continued up the littoral as far as Bahia; vestiges of Atlantic forest even exist in isolated areas near Natal on the northeast.
The Serra is under immense pressure from the population centres of Sao Paulo, Rio de Janeiro, Curitiba, as well as from the development of mass tourism, farming, deforestation, poaching and palmito (palm heart) thieves. In response to this threat, the state agencies for environment (Meio Ambiente,) in Sao Paulo and Rio have created a chain of State parks, Ecological stations, Biological Reserves, etc., forming a thread of protected areas along the length of the Serra. These areas are still subject to the ravages of developers, archaic land registration, and simple ignorance of the law, but the Serra still contains large tracts of virgin forest, often connected by trails used by the local population, varying in hiking time from a few hours to several days. One day it might be possible to walk its length without having to ask permission of the land owners, but for now it is far from complete.
This piece concentrates on the best preserved nuclei, considered best preserved parts of the Serra do Mar which are accessible to the determined traveller, the Parque Nacional da Serra da Bocaina, the Parque Nacional de Itatiaia, and the Parque Estadual Turistico do Alto Ribeira, (PETAR).
The threats to the Mata Atlantica come from various directions: illegal farming and deforestation, ineffective land legislation & institutions, palmito thieves, tourism developments for wealthy Paulistanos. Other significant threats in the wings are the Petrobras oil refinery 25 km east of Angra dos Reis, and the two nuclear reactors 40km west of Angra, built on a known fault line, (it's location, Itaorna, means "The Rock that Moves" in Guarani,) and suspected of having damaged reactors. Despite these alarming facts, they have the capacity to supply 20% of Brazil's electricity, and thus are next to impossible to shut down should the political will arise.
Facing these statistics is SOS Mata Atlantica, a non-governmental organisation created in 1986 to defend the remaining forest, including its cultural and historical landscape. Supported by a donations from a membership of around 30,000, corporate sponsorship and international support from organisations such as WWF, SOS supports numerous projects including the first satellite mapping of the area, education schemes and legal aid over land disputes. They also publish a bimonthly newspaper, free of charge from their headquarters.
Write to SOS Mata Atlantica, rua Maneol da Nobrega 456, Sao Paulo (tel 011 887 1195) Drop into their shop and buy the T-shirt. There is also a library open to the public if you wish to know more about the forest.
The principal path through the Park is known as the Trilha do Ouro, the Gold Trail. The trail was built by the salves of the early 18th century to bring gold down to the coast, to be loaded into Lisbon bound boats. Parati at that time was more important than Rio, and thousands of slave hours went into creating this major link to the interior. The trail can be traced through to Minas Gerais state, the last marked 30km stretch linking Ouro Branco and Ouro Preto, 500km to the north. Today the Minas landscape has been decimated by mining and deforestation for smelting, but the 100 km stretch over the Serra do Mar to the coast at Mambucaba is still intact, and offers a very attractive walk, passing stretches of virgin forest, at least three powerful waterfalls more than 50m high and a number of farms inhabited long before the National Park boundaries were drawn. The superb views give out to beyond this farmed strip over pristine Serra do Mar beauty; an unbroken canopy dotted with purple quaresmeira flowers, falcons and eagles soaring overhead. On clear days one can see right down to the base of the hills and out over Parati and the Atlantic, where the stone path meets the "planicie", the alluvial plain before the sea, where the river Mambucaba ceases its dramatic final gush down the mountain shelf.
To visit to the park, permission must be obtained from the park administration, in Sao Jose do Barreiro, either in writing or in person, at least 10 days in advance of any entrance to the park. The permit must be presented at the park gate, 26km up the road from Sao Jose do Barreiro before entering. Depending on just how much advance notice you give, the permit is either kept in the head office or sent up the road for collection.
A 26 km unlevelled dirt road runs from the praca in the town centre to a gateway and entrance of the park proper. Without your own transport, you could hire a taxi if its dry, (talk to Ze Milton in the only tour agency in town,) or walk - it is not unpleasant, but there's little water and few sites suitable for a tent on the way, other than by the road side. If you drive, you are ill advised to attempt it without 4wd except in perfect dry conditions; the road is "pessima" after a night of rain, and the park receives 14 nights of rain a month, with an annual average of four metres. Take your brolly. An alternative is to hold out for a lift from one of the locals living near or in the park; there are a number who have trashed pick-ups that come into town for supplies, normally having to be repaired every kilometer of the way. Sometimes the IBAMA jeep is going and they're happy to take you along if there's space. You might have to wait around for a day to get a ride. Horses could also be negotiated; they are expensive however and you'd have to pay for their handler as well, plus their return time if you're going one way. Bicycles would do well as far as the final descent to the coast, where the path is too degraded to think about biking it. (This will probably stand as an invitation for someone to try; don't invite me.)
Having got yourself to park gate, the 4WD road continues another 25km into the park, to Fazena Barrierinha, but to ride this section would be to miss one the best preseved sections of forest along the trail, and two of the principal waterfalls, Cachoeira do Sao Isidro [3km:1.00hr], and Cachoeira dos Posses [8km:2.00hrs]. Both require that you walk away from the track, and down to the river. You pass above the Valley Bonito and start up a hill that takes you past a turn for the Fazenda do Veado, [10km:2.30hrs] Keep to the main track and eventually emerge out on a ridge of bracken. There is a small make-shift chapel further along this part with macumba images in it [21km:4.30hrs] Do not disturb these images. The practice of macumba is very wide spread through the backcountry here, brought in by the black slaves and never effectively flushed out by Catholicism. I have listened on more than one occasion to priests steering their congregations away from their alternative saints.
Soon the track veers to the right and starts to descend through a saddle. Come off the motor road and take the short-cut small trail heading down to the farm house visible in the lap of the valley 300m away; if you miss it, the road eventually arrives at the same destination.
This is Fazenda Barreirinha, [25km:5.00hrs] marked as Fazenda do Sertao on the IBGE map, Tiao and Wander and their seven children offer food, lodging, showers and camping space. The house contains no less than 15 beds within its wooden walls, but it is rarely full, except, perhaps, when Carnival might bring a group here from the city. The facilities are priced separately, full board at R$30, camping charged at R$1. The choice is yours. A good excursion from here is the 40 minute tramp straight up the hill to catch the view looking down into the bay of Ilha Grande, and Parati.
Continuing past the small locked church you start to walk on the original stones of the Trilha de Ouro. Along the way you pass a very small patch of forest with a trickling stream exiting as a waterfall and crossing the path [30km:6.00]. Just here is another suggested camp. Much of the land around here is farmed, a few cattle and some maize being the norm., although some fruit is harvested, such the oranges and goiabas of the Fazenda Central [35km:7.15], which comes after a 2km stretch of cooling forest, worth spending some rest time in; another great camp, you can also spend time absorbing some of the huge copious wild strawberries that are abundant here.
Crossing a stream and following the muddy descent the path arrives at an open pasture by the bank of the Mambucaba river, which at this point is a good 30m wide. This fazenda [37km:8.00hrs], (which also forms part of Fazenda Central,) is run by Sr. Ze Candido, who also offers basic food and beds with mattresses and blankets.
Don't cross the river here, but walk behind the farm and again find the trail which proceeds parallel to it. Shortly you hear through the trees the sound of the largest of the parks waterfalls, the Cachoeira de Veado [41km:9.00hrs]. If there were a symbol for the park this would be it. Crashing over 60m into the Mambucaba, the Deer Falls are wonderful place to camp, stay, bathe, fish and recount campfire tales. The best site is the flat ground just across the log bridge, with the site of the top of the falls over the trees. A trail leads up for a much closer look, and it is possible to swim in the pool of the veil beneath.
The trail crosses the river just beyond the camp ground, on a long bouncy log bridge, and follows to the left through some maize feilds to ascend to the path that must be taken left up into the forest again. A last view back at Veado across the valley before disappearing into the forest for a few hours. The path here is original stone work, that unfortunately hasn't been repaired for a good while; with constant use by horses and heavy rain, the clay on which the stones are laid is waterlogged in places and rather treacherous. You're advised to pick up a stout stick to help you down the 9km [4 hours] between Veado and the suspension bridge on the plain below [50km:13hrs]. On the way are two rivers that must be forded, and while you at it you can swim in them. They also provide an opportunity to put on repellant against the "borachudos", pium flies that are much more tenacious than any mosquito, becoming prevalent as you appoach the coast. The plateau is reached before you exit the forest where there are banana clearings. The common non-indiginous herbaceous plant growing all along the side of the path is butterfly ginger, genus Alpinia named for its flamboyant white flowers which appear in the summer months and fills this stretch with perfume. Pull one up and compare the root to cooking ginger. The mud here is unavoidable, it is sometimes better to rid yourself of your boots and go bare foot.
The suspension bridge marks the boundary to the National Park, as it lies on the 100m contour. Nothing can now be built legally above this line anywhere in Brazil. But there is a while to go yet before reaching the beach. The jeep track slowly widens and the occasional car is seen serving the various farms; it might be possible to catch a lift (to the town of Pereque, an uninspiring concrete dump), that lets you down before reaching the main road. Mambucaba [65km:16hrs] itself is on the other side, with a small beach and a pretty colonial church.
That having said, the trails open to the public present considerable challenges to the day visitor. The big attraction is the Peak of Agulhos Negras, 7th highest peak in the country. 2km past the park gate, the Abrigo das Reboucas, an out-of-used climbers hut, marks the start of the trail. Turning left off the jeep track, you must first cross the small dam over the Rio Campo Belo, and find the obvious path. After 30 minutes, you arrive at the only bifurcation on the trail. Keep right and continue another 15 minutes until the rock wall presents itself. There is a rope hanging down to help you up first shelf, thereafter the next 2 hours must be taken with care and balance. As with any mountain environment, make sure you have with you; spare food, map, compass, torch, whistle and first-aid. On a clear day the top gives views over the Paraiba Valley towards the Serra do Mar and Bocaina.
There are two other points worthwhile visiting if the weather is too rotten to ascend to Agulhas Negras: Pedra do Altar and Asa do Hermes, and they are certainly less frightening. Back at the turn, take the left branch and the trail descends to lovely views of the Aiuruoca valley, on the north of the park.
On the other side of the valley, to the west, are the Prateleiras, (the Shelves) attaining a height of 2,600m. The trail begins where the jeep path finishes, and veers to the right, from where you can see the peak after 20 minutes. It is a popular climbing haunt for its huge steps accessible on this side.
With park traverses closed, there is another way of getting to out of the park without doubling back down. From near the Hotel Alsene, an old farm track begins to descend the rear slopes of the park towards Fazenda da Cabeceira do Aiuruoca, re-entering the forest for a time. You must head for the peak 2195, and skirt around the north side of it. From there it is a steady descent along a 7km ridge until Maromba, which offers lodging and food. Maringa and Visconde de Maua, are lined up on the same road, also offer pousadas and good things to eat. A developed "ecotourism" point, a variety of trails head of Maua to the abundant waterfalls. There are a few camp sites around here, probably the most pleasant being the pined Santa Clara, 2km from Maromba, for which you must cross the footbridge over the river of the same name. From these towns, daily buses will return you to the Dutra highway, from where you can return to Rio or Sao Paulo.
The one exception to this is the Upper Ribeira valley, home to Brazil's highest concentration of limestone caves, formed by the sea bed that was pushed up by the mountains, and the continual downpour it receives. PETAR also contains numerous rivers, waterfalls and offers some of the best close-up looks at Mata Atlantica, with short marked and unmarked trails through the forest to points of interest, varying in length from five minutes to six hours.
Frequently referred to as the poorest part of the state, with minimum industry, agriculture and infrastructure, the park was created as the result of a battle between the fast growing environmental lobby and supporters of a proposed hydro-electric dam on the Ribeira River. For now, the area remains protected from further development, but the unemployed of the area haven't lain down yet. While 90% of its area is still involved in land conflict of some kind, the unemployed populace is banned from the extractive industries that the forest offers. Tourism offers one possible solution if kept at an appropriate level. Similar to coral reefs, caves have a fragility that is easily disturbed by enthusiasm and ignorance. Many of the caves are restricted to registered speleologists, (for reasons of safety), but enough remain accessible accessible to guided or unaccompanied travellers to make visiting a great experience. Travelling through the valley is a treat too; the fast and richly forested mountain streams crash into the powerful Rio Ribeira, flanked by banana plantations and punctuated with dug-out canoes, and the odd small colonial church.
The central focus to PETAR is the Nucleo Santana, 25 km east of Apiai, 316km southwest of Sao Paulo. The big attraction here is Caverna de Santana. The second "nucleus" of PETAR is Ouro Grosso with its namesake cave, while a third "nucleus" lies north of the range (Nucleo Caboclo), featuring numerous caves, some of them open to non-speleologists. If stuck in Iporanga, nearby the church, to the right of the town hall, is a museum owned and lived in by Clayton Lino, an authority on the area and its caves. In Bairro da Serra across from Alojamento do Vandir, the brazilian Speleological Society (SBE) operates a small store selling spelunking equipment, including lanterns and batteries. The store is only open on weekends and holidays.
The Nucleo Santana lies 25km east of Apiai and four kilomenters before Bairro da Serra. The campground beside the Bethari River can hold up to 160 people between its two areas, so if you are arriving on an important holiday it's best to call in advance either the gatehouse. The overnight cost is US$4, with showers, toilets, manual clothes washing facilities. Day entrance costs US$2, with use of the barbecue sites, thatched shelters and tables.
Visits to the principal cave of Santana must be conducted by park guides, the price of which is included in the entrance ticket. Guides supply lanterns. The cave's estimated 15km is only open up to 800m of its length, but it is still considered to be one of the region's best assets.
Another trail leading out from the campground is Trilha do Bethari, and 3.6km up the steep hill-side you pass Cachoeira das Andorinhas, and Cachoera do Betarzinho. The trail crosses the river five times along the way, and for this reason it is not accessible after heavy rain when the river is in spate. Also accessible from this trail are the caves of Morro Preto, Agua Suja where visits are unrestricted. Across the footbridge from the camp, up an easy 380m path is the entrance to the Cachoeira and the Caverna do Couto, 200m deep and with free access. Remains of past civilisation have been discovered in this cave, but I am unclear if the notice outside really means inhabited; the cultures I have come across used cave for ritual purposes, but preferred not to inhabit their rather damp atmospheres.
The next Nucleus is Ouro Grosso, on the opposite side of the river from Bairro da Serra. The entrance is unmarked; find JJ's bar, and follow the track almost opposite. No vehicles can cross the river, other than a 4WD. The tree trunk foot-bridge certainly looks safer bet. The track continues for a kilometer to the visitor centre. Restricted visits to the Caverna Ouro Grosso require an official guide and technical equipment. Inside are waterfalls and swimming pools. Outside, a two-kilometer trail tracks down some ancient fig trees in the forest. There is no camping here; you are best off staying in the Nucleo Santana site or sleeping in Bairro da Serra.
The third nucleus (Nucleo Caboclo) is to the north of the range, off the SP-250. Turn off at the sign to Espirito Santo, about 30km to the north of Apiai, and the dirt road continues another 18 km to the camp. Holding around 60 campers, the site has toilets and showers but not the luxury of electricity. Camping is currently free. The unrestricted cave is Gruta do Chapeu, and the four requiring guides are Chapeu Mirim 1 & 2, Gruta das Aranhas and Gruta da Agua Sumida. Other caverns in this region are restricted to official parties.
One other cave of note in the region is the Caverna do Diablo, 5km off the Iporanga-Eldorada highway. A concrete, railed walk-way leads 300m into the illuminated grotto. There is a US$2.50 charge. There are cabins, costing US$80, that sleep up to 10 people, but no restaurant while it's under reformation. A "lanchonette" at the junction is the nearest source of nourishment.
Ric Goodman contributed an expanded version of this section to Globe Pequot Press guidebook Guide to Brazil: Pantanal, Amazon and Coastal Regions. Click here to order the book from Amazon.com.
The author has worked as a freelance tour guide in Brazil and other countries for the past five years. Based in Oxford, UK.
Eco Travels in Brazil
Home |
About |
Advertise! |
Books |
Central America |
Ecotourism |
Headlines
Learn Spanish |
Mexico |
Media |
Site Map |
South America |
World Travel |
Updates