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Copper Canyon: A Travel Agent's Perspective
by Elizabeth Malek-Zadeh

PLANETA FORUM

This article was published in 1999.

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PHOTO GALLERY: Barancas (Copper Canyon)


On board Mexico's Chihuahua al Pacifico train, travelers view the unraveling of a series of canyons -- four times larger than the Grand Canyon in the United States.

The majestic views from the canyon rim require patience as often the view is obscured by white clouds and mist. Amid holes in the clouds you may catch a glimpse of magnificent gorges with pockets of life weaved into the expansive views.

A flash of bright colors drew my eyes to the colorful stream of adolescent Tarahumara (or Raramuri) Indian girls. The Tarrahumara are a famous nomad people who inhabit the canyon. This peaceful culture, known for their love of running, now takes regular trips on the Copper Canyon train.

Groups of girls walk up and down the aisles selling their crafts. They take a daily business trip by boarding the eastbound train and then catching the westbound train to return to their homes. The girls wear traditional clothes and they pass kids with Nikes and jeans. They're not going to ask travelers if someone wants to buy their wares. They wait to be asked. Some of the passengers smile as the girls pass. Most of the girls do not return a smile, and they never barter.

A new train is expected to be in service soon. It will be a departure from the broken windows and the mud-splattered windows you find on the older train. But it will also be a departure from the locomotive whose windows have been glanced through by past adventurers. There are rumors of a high speed train complete with onboard exercise equipment -- but until then, travelers have the old stand-by, and remember, the view is always better on the south side of the train.

A unique characteristic of the Canyon is its appeal to both active and passive travelers. The train allows for visual delights with little fuss. Sedentary folks need not leave their train seat. Yet endless possibilities for hiking and cheap travel make this a great stomping ground for the more adventurous. For those looking for luxury, there are beautiful accommodations, with meals and tours included.

The train brings together the different travelers, making for an interesting point to exchange stories. For some, researching and planning this trip can be exhilarating. The various unknowns make for interesting surprises along the way. However, for those with limited time, there may be less tolerance for unpredictable experiences. For travelers who don't speak Spanish, I would especially suggest a pre-arranged tour. Various companies offer packages for independent tours.

CANYON TRAVEL

Before this trip, I researched different companies offering Copper Canyon trips. The ideal company would possess an interest in providing clients a combination of 1) awareness and concern with local societal and environmental issues, 2) professionalism and dependability with clients. My research led me to Canyon Travel.

Many companies offer Copper Canyon as one of many destinations. Columbus Tours specializes in this region -- offering only Copper Canyon tours. Owner Emilio Kifuri is a member of the Ecotourism Society and has been interviewed by Frommers, the New York Times, CNN, Travel Weekly and countless others.

Conversations and interactions with him were impressive. But could this be as good as it sounded? His concern for the area, and with providing a rewarding experience seemed clear. Would he really live up to all the hype on "my" trip?

Mr.Kifuri was generous in his assistance with this familiarization trip, understanding my need to be objective in my impressions. I had high expectations for this trip with Columbus, and my expectations were more than satisfied. Step-on guides offered an unforgettable display of professionalism, service-mindedness, and knowledge. In the choice of accommodations, Columbus Tours considers issues such as disposal of sewage, employment of local citizens, and attention to service. They have provided interest free loans to assist local lodge owners. The attention to detail and the pride taken by all involved was unique from any company I have traveled with.

There is no doubt that seeing the Copper Canyon is unforgettable in its majesty and rich culture. Also impressive, is finding a company which cares for the people who live in a visited area, and who accepts the responsibility which comes with providing foreign visitors with an authentic and rewarding experience.

QUESTIONS

To all travelers to the Copper Canyon, and other destination, I suggest taking an active interest in your surroundings. Your questions can draw attention to the importance of preservation and conservation of the unique environment you visit. Following is a list of possible questions.

I encourage you to demonstrate to caretakers of these lands, that there are value and rewards in taking responsibility for their fragile environments.

  • Is there a community or hotel recycling program?
  • What materials get recycled?
  • How is kitchen waste disposed of?
  • What is done to treat and dispose of sewage?
  • Do guests have an option to decline daily washing of towels or bed linens?
  • Does the hotel contribute to conservation?
  • Does the community have organized group meetings? Does the hotel participate?
  • What percentage of employees is drawn from the local community?
  • Is management made up of local residents?
  • When the lodging is filled, where do they refer clients?
  • What materials were used in constructing the accommodations?
  • Where do local families go to educate their children?
  • What tours or educational activities are there for visitors?
  • In preparing meals, where does produce come from?
  • What are the common forms of local land use?
  • Employee turnover?
  • What are the closest medical facilities?
  • What is the relationship between the local hotels and lodges?

AUTHOR

Elizabeth Malek-Zadeh is a travel agent offering consultation in trip planning. She organized the 1996 conference The Ecotourism Equation: Measuring the Impacts at Yale University.



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